Tips from the Potting Shed
by Kathryn de Winter-Hart
by Kathryn de Winter-Hart
10 Outdoor Garden Chores for December
Time to start taking it easy for a few weeks at this frigid time of the year. Brew a pot of coffee or a cup of tea, sit in your easy chair by the crackling fire and read the December newsletter (or a few flower catalogues.} Then take a nap. You deserve it!!!!
- Plant Bulbs. Whether you snagged a great bargain at an end-of-season bulb sale or simply forgot to plant a few bulbs, it's okay to tuck bulbs into soil as long it's not frozen solid.
- Transplant Herbs.
- Keep Composting.
- Prune Trees.
- Make Your Own Mulch.
- Cut Back Perennials.
- Edge Planting Beds.
- Sow Cool-Season Crops.
- Plant your Christmas Tree if you bought living one.
Time to start taking it easy for a few weeks at this frigid time of the year. Brew a pot of coffee or a cup of tea, sit in your easy chair by the crackling fire and read the December newsletter (or a few flower catalogues.} Then take a nap. You deserve it!!!!
November
Summer has loosened its grip here in the Mid-Atlantic. As we breathe a sigh of relief from this long hot season, we can now step back and enjoy the garden a bit. It is also a great time to reset and focus on some tasks to prepare for what’s next.
Plant spring bulbs. Your bulb order should have arrived by now and it is a perfect time to plant them. Do not wait too long to plant and when planting, make sure they are not planted too deeply. A general rule of thumb for bulb planting is to plant twice as deep as the bulb size. So, digging a hole for a crocus (Crocus spp. and cvs., Zones 3-8) bulb will be significantly shallower than one for a daffodil or tulip bulb.
Plant trees and shrubs. The arrival of cool weather means less watering and less stress on plants. This is an ideal time to plant trees and shrubs. However, in the Mid-Atlantic, white tail deer pressure ramps up as the temperatures drop and there is less food available for them. After planting, be sure to add deer fencing to the new plants. This will reduce deer browsing on the foliage. Also, around this time of year, bucks will rub their antlers on young trees. So, fencing or caging is important for protecting the bark of newly planted trees.
Clean up fallen leaves–but not all of them. As the leaves are changing color and floating to the ground, they no doubt will begin to form a layer on the garden and lawn. Cleaning up the garden is necessary but think about using these leaves as mulch. Of course, you’ll want to remove them from the lawn to avoid smothering the grass, but a quick mow of the lawn will chop the leaves up. If the mower chops them finely enough where the next rain will make them settle, just leave them. However, if they are still thick, blow them back into the beds. It will make wonderful mulch. As for the garden, you can let the leaves lie until a late winter or early spring cleanup or blow them out, chop them up, and blow them back in.
Design for fall interest. Do you have enough fall interest in the garden? If not, now is the time to decide what you can plant to make your fall garden shine. Perennials such as native black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida var. fulgida, Zones 3-9) and ‘Matrona’ upright sedum (Hylotelephium telephium ‘Matrona’, Zones 3-9) are wonderful, tried and true additions for a fall garden when everything else is ready for bed.
Harvest cool weather crops, green tomatoes, and herbs. By now, some of those cool weather crops can be picked. Fall veggies such as greens and radishes should be ready. And don’t forget about the rest of your tomatoes. Frost does not usually hit the Mid-Atlantic until mid to late October, so get those green tomatoes inside for relish and pickling. Also, any annual herbs such as basil, parsley, and dill can be picked and dried.
Plant spring bulbs. Your bulb order should have arrived by now and it is a perfect time to plant them. Do not wait too long to plant and when planting, make sure they are not planted too deeply. A general rule of thumb for bulb planting is to plant twice as deep as the bulb size. So, digging a hole for a crocus (Crocus spp. and cvs., Zones 3-8) bulb will be significantly shallower than one for a daffodil or tulip bulb.
Plant trees and shrubs. The arrival of cool weather means less watering and less stress on plants. This is an ideal time to plant trees and shrubs. However, in the Mid-Atlantic, white tail deer pressure ramps up as the temperatures drop and there is less food available for them. After planting, be sure to add deer fencing to the new plants. This will reduce deer browsing on the foliage. Also, around this time of year, bucks will rub their antlers on young trees. So, fencing or caging is important for protecting the bark of newly planted trees.
Clean up fallen leaves–but not all of them. As the leaves are changing color and floating to the ground, they no doubt will begin to form a layer on the garden and lawn. Cleaning up the garden is necessary but think about using these leaves as mulch. Of course, you’ll want to remove them from the lawn to avoid smothering the grass, but a quick mow of the lawn will chop the leaves up. If the mower chops them finely enough where the next rain will make them settle, just leave them. However, if they are still thick, blow them back into the beds. It will make wonderful mulch. As for the garden, you can let the leaves lie until a late winter or early spring cleanup or blow them out, chop them up, and blow them back in.
Design for fall interest. Do you have enough fall interest in the garden? If not, now is the time to decide what you can plant to make your fall garden shine. Perennials such as native black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida var. fulgida, Zones 3-9) and ‘Matrona’ upright sedum (Hylotelephium telephium ‘Matrona’, Zones 3-9) are wonderful, tried and true additions for a fall garden when everything else is ready for bed.
Harvest cool weather crops, green tomatoes, and herbs. By now, some of those cool weather crops can be picked. Fall veggies such as greens and radishes should be ready. And don’t forget about the rest of your tomatoes. Frost does not usually hit the Mid-Atlantic until mid to late October, so get those green tomatoes inside for relish and pickling. Also, any annual herbs such as basil, parsley, and dill can be picked and dried.
September
As your September Garden bursts with late-season color from Sedum, Aster, Sunflowers, Zinnias, and more, hopefully you feel a sense of accomplishment for everything you were able to grow this past season. But even as you sit and pause to think about the spring and summer season, as always there is more work to do in the garden!
September Gardening TasksWeeding. Spend 1-2 hours per week keeping up with weeding in your garden. Diligent weeding helps prevent weeds from going to seed and also prevents disease in next season’s garden.
Stop pruning and fertilizing. At this point in the season, pruning and fertilizing only promotes new growth that most likely will not make it through the winter.
Leave Echinacea, Sedum, Grasses, and Clematis alone to provide habitat and food for birds over the winter months. These blooms also add texture and interest to the winter garden.
If you want annuals to self-seed, stop deadheading in September. Annual Poppies, Zinnias, Sunflowers, and more will drop their seeds and (most likely) come back next year.
Write in your garden journal. Take note of what grew well, dividing your gardens up into sections as it makes sense (containers, vegetable garden, annuals, perennials). This will be a big help when you are planning your garden over the winter months.
Start cleaning up plants as they fade. Cut back any perennial that is diseased or that has started to turn yellow, including Daylilies, Iris, Peonies, Bee Balm, and more.
Dig up and divide Daylilies, Iris, and other perennials that have become overcrowded.
As you cut plants back and continue to weed, top up mulch in all of your garden beds to provide a nice layer of protection for the winter months.
Add spring-blooming bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths to your garden in September.
Perennials planted in the fall offer up bigger growth and often bloom in the first season. Bulbs like tulips, daffodils, allium, and more need the overwintering period in order to bloom in the spring.
The more you accomplish in the September garden means less for the early spring when you’re busy with the long list of to-dos to wake your garden up for the season. If you’re thinking of adding a pollinator garden to your landscape, try to prep the area and get as much planted as you can this fall. Come spring, the plants will be much larger and that area will be primed and ready to add in annuals and other varieties. The more weeding and mulching you do in September, the less weeds you’ll have to deal with in the spring. Take advantage of the gorgeous weather that September brings and get yourself in a great position to start next season off running!
September Gardening TasksWeeding. Spend 1-2 hours per week keeping up with weeding in your garden. Diligent weeding helps prevent weeds from going to seed and also prevents disease in next season’s garden.
Stop pruning and fertilizing. At this point in the season, pruning and fertilizing only promotes new growth that most likely will not make it through the winter.
Leave Echinacea, Sedum, Grasses, and Clematis alone to provide habitat and food for birds over the winter months. These blooms also add texture and interest to the winter garden.
If you want annuals to self-seed, stop deadheading in September. Annual Poppies, Zinnias, Sunflowers, and more will drop their seeds and (most likely) come back next year.
Write in your garden journal. Take note of what grew well, dividing your gardens up into sections as it makes sense (containers, vegetable garden, annuals, perennials). This will be a big help when you are planning your garden over the winter months.
Start cleaning up plants as they fade. Cut back any perennial that is diseased or that has started to turn yellow, including Daylilies, Iris, Peonies, Bee Balm, and more.
Dig up and divide Daylilies, Iris, and other perennials that have become overcrowded.
As you cut plants back and continue to weed, top up mulch in all of your garden beds to provide a nice layer of protection for the winter months.
Add spring-blooming bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths to your garden in September.
Perennials planted in the fall offer up bigger growth and often bloom in the first season. Bulbs like tulips, daffodils, allium, and more need the overwintering period in order to bloom in the spring.
The more you accomplish in the September garden means less for the early spring when you’re busy with the long list of to-dos to wake your garden up for the season. If you’re thinking of adding a pollinator garden to your landscape, try to prep the area and get as much planted as you can this fall. Come spring, the plants will be much larger and that area will be primed and ready to add in annuals and other varieties. The more weeding and mulching you do in September, the less weeds you’ll have to deal with in the spring. Take advantage of the gorgeous weather that September brings and get yourself in a great position to start next season off running!
August
Hazy, hot and humid…and plum tuckered out. But give up we must not. Every weed pulled now is a hundred you don’t have to deal with later. Don’t let them go to seed.
WATERING is another major focus; if you’re dry, don’t waste water on lawns, which will bounce back from brown in time when cooler, moister days return. Target your offerings to the most precious subjects, particularly recently planted things.
MAKE A PASS through each bed each week, since weeds are not just unsightly but steal moisture, nutrients and light from desired plants. Top up mulch in all garden beds if washed or worn away to help in the plight.
TREES ARE especially vulnerable to drought, particularly the oldest and the youngest (those planted in the last few years). Water deeply.
ALWAYS BE on the lookout for dead, damaged, diseased wood in trees and shrubs and prune them out as discovered.
DAYLILIES can be dug and divided as they complete their bloom cycle, right into fall, if needed.
PEONIES are best divided and transplanted in late August through September, if they need it. Remember with these fussy guys that “eyes” must not be buried more than an inch or two beneath the soil surface
DEADHEAD FADED PERENNIALS and summer bulbs unless they have showy seed heads, or you want to collect seed later (non-hybrids only).
ORDER BULBS to get varieties you want.
HARVEST herbs both for immediate use and for drying.
PREPARE NEW beds for fall planting by smothering grass or weeds with layers of recycled corrugated cardboard or thick layers of newspaper, then put mulch on top.
WATERING is another major focus; if you’re dry, don’t waste water on lawns, which will bounce back from brown in time when cooler, moister days return. Target your offerings to the most precious subjects, particularly recently planted things.
MAKE A PASS through each bed each week, since weeds are not just unsightly but steal moisture, nutrients and light from desired plants. Top up mulch in all garden beds if washed or worn away to help in the plight.
TREES ARE especially vulnerable to drought, particularly the oldest and the youngest (those planted in the last few years). Water deeply.
ALWAYS BE on the lookout for dead, damaged, diseased wood in trees and shrubs and prune them out as discovered.
DAYLILIES can be dug and divided as they complete their bloom cycle, right into fall, if needed.
PEONIES are best divided and transplanted in late August through September, if they need it. Remember with these fussy guys that “eyes” must not be buried more than an inch or two beneath the soil surface
DEADHEAD FADED PERENNIALS and summer bulbs unless they have showy seed heads, or you want to collect seed later (non-hybrids only).
ORDER BULBS to get varieties you want.
HARVEST herbs both for immediate use and for drying.
PREPARE NEW beds for fall planting by smothering grass or weeds with layers of recycled corrugated cardboard or thick layers of newspaper, then put mulch on top.
July
July means mid-summer. That spells oppressive conditions for both plants and people.
Mid-summer is a good time to take stock of the garden and consider suitable adjustments for next year's garden.
Fertilize heat-resistant perennials.
(Mid-July:) Pinch mums one last time. Pinching later in the summer would reduce the blooms that you are counting on for fall displays.
Pick blueberries before the wild birds eat them. The most common way gardeners have of protecting blueberries from birds is by covering them with nets.
There will likely be extended heat waves in July. Keep your plants adequately watered to avoid losing your investment of time, energy, and money in them.
Pick up annuals that garden centers put on sale. You can revitalize them during July and August and have them ready for autumn flower beds.
Check your automatic irrigation system: It needs to be functioning properly during the peak of the summer heat.
The hottest weather is in July. Save beach trips for the worst days, but water before you leave. This month also calls for stepping back and taking stock of what is in bloom, with an eye to adding to that floral color in future years.
The abundance of shrubs and perennials in bloom in spring is just a memory now. You have plants such as garden phlox getting ready to flower now, and, soon the flowers of rose of sharon will furnish your yard with interest. But look for other options to inject color into your yard.
Check garden centers for annuals such as sweet alyssum that have been put on sale. They may not look like much now, but you can bring them back to health with some TLC and use them in fall plantings.
Harvest vegetables and berries regularly.
Mid-summer is a good time to take stock of the garden and consider suitable adjustments for next year's garden.
Fertilize heat-resistant perennials.
(Mid-July:) Pinch mums one last time. Pinching later in the summer would reduce the blooms that you are counting on for fall displays.
Pick blueberries before the wild birds eat them. The most common way gardeners have of protecting blueberries from birds is by covering them with nets.
There will likely be extended heat waves in July. Keep your plants adequately watered to avoid losing your investment of time, energy, and money in them.
Pick up annuals that garden centers put on sale. You can revitalize them during July and August and have them ready for autumn flower beds.
Check your automatic irrigation system: It needs to be functioning properly during the peak of the summer heat.
The hottest weather is in July. Save beach trips for the worst days, but water before you leave. This month also calls for stepping back and taking stock of what is in bloom, with an eye to adding to that floral color in future years.
The abundance of shrubs and perennials in bloom in spring is just a memory now. You have plants such as garden phlox getting ready to flower now, and, soon the flowers of rose of sharon will furnish your yard with interest. But look for other options to inject color into your yard.
Check garden centers for annuals such as sweet alyssum that have been put on sale. They may not look like much now, but you can bring them back to health with some TLC and use them in fall plantings.
Harvest vegetables and berries regularly.
June
- Add and subtract from your garden. June is a great time to assess what you have in the garden. By now the garden has filled in, and you can add and remove plants. Take a few photos or revise the sketch made of the garden earlier in the season, then head to the nursery or computer for ordering. This will streamline the decision-making process. When you take inventory, you end up buying plants that make sense in your garden.
- Take care of your dahlias and tomatoes. Now that dahlias (Dahlia spp. and cvs., Zones 7–11) and tomatoes are in the ground, be sure to stake them for support. Pinching them back is helpful as well. This aids flower and fruit production. Both plants are heavy feeders, so be sure to maintain a regular fertilizing schedule. Dahlias benefit from bone meal, and tomatoes appreciate an organic slow-release tomato fertilizer.
- Start a compost pile, or check on the one you have. Composting is not only great for your garden, but it can also save you money on your bill if you pay for trash service. It will also reduce the amount of garbage that is put in the landfill. Compost bins range from simple to complex depending on how much time you would like to spend on creating and maintaining one. If building a compost bin seems daunting, there are many options available for purchase.
- Prune your azaleas. In the Mid-Atlantic region, azaleas (Rhododendron spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9) are just about finished blooming. This is a great time to thin out and reduce the height of your azaleas. Many gardeners believe azaleas should be pruned by the Fourth of July. Contrary to popular belief, azaleas can be pruned for performance any time of the year. Pruning by the Fourth of July is a good rule of thumb when shearing a hedge or single plant, but it does not apply for selective pruning and gently shaping azaleas.
- Enjoy the garden. Gardeners work hard, and for most, maintaining a garden is a labor of love. Gardeners always seem to be thinking about what needs to be planted, changed, and weeded. We do not sit back and just enjoy what we create. So take a few hours to sit out in the garden and imagine that you have never seen it before. Looking at the garden with new eyes may help you to embrace your garden rather than critique it.
May
May is when the garden really begins to wake up – and it's the time to gear up for the summer.
Lawn maintenance
Now's the time for active lawn maintenance – and the last chance to sow or lay new lawns until autumn without using sprinklers. The lawn will need weekly mowing from now until autumn, and the edges will need trimming.
Plant
Pay special attention to tender vegetables and soft fruit. The end of the month is the best time to plant out tender zucchinis and egg plants if you have a kitchen garden, as well as planting our summer bedding plants.
May is also the time to repot pot-bound container plants in pots 3 – 4 inches bigger than the current ones. Remember to tie in long climber shoots to their supports with soft string.
Protect
With insects becoming much more active as temperatures rise, be especially vigilant about pests. Pick off scarlet lily beetle from your lilies; their larvae rapidly defoliate plants. Watch for vine weevil in container plantings – irregular-shaped notches to leaf edges are tell-tale signs. The young grubs in the soil eat roots, and fast. Use natural nematodes to control them at the end of the month.
Cover soft fruit bushes with netting to prevent birds eating the fruit, and if you are growing strawberries, put straw around or under them.
Prune
Don't forget about the plants that have just finished flowering; prune spring-flowering shrubs.
Feed
Feed spring bulbs with blood, fish and bone.
Cover soft fruit bushes with netting to prevent birds eating the young fruit
February 2021
As every gardener knows, February is a bittersweet month. Yearning to be outside while the garden is dormant and often snow covered can be depressing for those who spend most of the year outside. However, February also provides a welcome break to catch up on tasks that the busy season does not allow time to accomplish.
Prune your dormant trees and shrubs. When these deciduous plants lack foliage, their frames can be clearly seen. Deadwood can be removed from any tree or shrub; when pruning for shape, shrubs flowering on new wood can be pruned now. For those flowering on old wood, wait to prune until after they bloom.
Order your vegetable seeds. March is just around the corner, and so it’s time to start annual and vegetable seeds. Get the seed catalogs out and start shopping. This a great time to dream about all the new plants that can be added to the garden. Select Seeds and Floret are great sources for heirloom cutting flowers. Johnny’s Selected Seeds, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, and Happy Cat Farm are excellent sources for heirloom vegetable seeds.
Make a wish list of supplies. Take inventory of your tools, pots, plant stakes, and seed-starting supplies, and make a list of what you need or want this spring. Need a compost bin? Shop around, or if you are feeling motivated, find plans to build your own. After finding what you need, organize your potting shed or garage and you’ll be ready to go for spring
Plan changes to make to your garden. Take a walk around your winter garden and take some notes. A garden journal is a great tool to save those garden ideas that you might forget by the time spring is in full swing. What can you add for more winter interest? What would you like to see in spring and summer? Even if you are not a landscape designer, making a rough sketch of your garden will provide a visual for any editing that can be done or spaces that can be filled.
Take a class or workshop. Attending a conference, class, or workshop is a wonderful way to get inspired and network with fellow plantspeople during the winter months. Many public gardens and garden associations have a variety of continuing education programs. In the Mid-Atlantic region, botanical gardens such as Longwood Gardens in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania, Mt. Cuba Center in Hockessin, Delaware, and Morris Arboretum in Philadelphia have wonderful continuing education programs with a large selection of classes and workshops. The APGA (American Public Gardens Association) is also a great resource for finding local classes.
Although winter slows everyday activity in the garden, there are still many ways to keep your thumb green in February. While not always physically in the garden, these activities will keep you thinking about the next gardening season.
April
1. Clean the GardenFall and winter leave a lot of branches, dead leaves, and debris behind. Clear your garden, lawn and flower borders of any such debris so that you can prepare for the planting season. You may also want to get rid of old growth of herbaceous perennials and deciduous grass this early spring. This is also the time to do a lot of weeding in your garden. Once you are through removing weeds, winter mulches, and debris, you can start digging and preparing your garden for planting. Assuming that the soil is not too wet and difficult to work on.
2. Time to Prep Your SoilAfter clearing all the debris, nourish your soil with compost or well-rotted manure, if available. This will feed the beneficial microorganisms in the soil and encourage insect activity. Applying nutrients to the soil nourishes it, making it richer with the minerals and essential elements your plants need to grow. If you don’t have compost or manure, apply a slow-release fertilizer. Just make sure not to use traditional synthetic lawn fertilizers for your garden.
3. Plant Spring AnnualsTime to plant spring flower seedlings and young plants that you planted in March. If you’ve not sown seeds yet, start them now: Petunias, zinnias, marigolds, purple cone flowers and any other seasonal flowers you fancy in your flowerbeds. It might seem like some work now, but you will definitely enjoy their blooming sight in summer. Check your flower beds; you may find the need to add more perennials as well. It’s also a time to plant your container garden. Think about nice container flower combinations and follow a technique like spiller-filler-thriller.
4. Set Up a Compost AreaCompost and manures are very important as you will be able to use them to organically nourish your plants and soil without the need for synthetic fertilizers. You can also buy a simple compost bin. Throw in a mixture of anything organic including grass clippings, paper, vegetable peelings, and leaves. Turn the compost once or twice in a month using a rake to keep the compost heap aerated.
5. Trees and ShrubsPrune your trees and deciduous shrubs and remove any dead and sickly-looking leaves or branches. This stimulates new plant growth and spring flowering. Be sure to fertilize and mulch your trees and shrubs. Add the organic mulch in a circle surrounding the plant rather than layering it on the trunk. This will not only provide the plants with the nutrients they need for optimum growth, but it will also conserve moisture and encourage strong hardy drought-resistant roots. If you want to add any tree or shrub to your garden, now is the time to do it. You can visit your nearby plant nursery or even order online.
6. Fertilize and Reseed Your LawnApply slow-release fertilizer on your lawn this early spring. As the name suggests, ‘slow-release’ means the fertilizer that is slowly released into the soil over a long period. After fertilizing, reseed all patches of dead or damaged grass in your lawn and water well. The new seeds will require sufficient moisture for optimum growth.
2. Time to Prep Your SoilAfter clearing all the debris, nourish your soil with compost or well-rotted manure, if available. This will feed the beneficial microorganisms in the soil and encourage insect activity. Applying nutrients to the soil nourishes it, making it richer with the minerals and essential elements your plants need to grow. If you don’t have compost or manure, apply a slow-release fertilizer. Just make sure not to use traditional synthetic lawn fertilizers for your garden.
3. Plant Spring AnnualsTime to plant spring flower seedlings and young plants that you planted in March. If you’ve not sown seeds yet, start them now: Petunias, zinnias, marigolds, purple cone flowers and any other seasonal flowers you fancy in your flowerbeds. It might seem like some work now, but you will definitely enjoy their blooming sight in summer. Check your flower beds; you may find the need to add more perennials as well. It’s also a time to plant your container garden. Think about nice container flower combinations and follow a technique like spiller-filler-thriller.
4. Set Up a Compost AreaCompost and manures are very important as you will be able to use them to organically nourish your plants and soil without the need for synthetic fertilizers. You can also buy a simple compost bin. Throw in a mixture of anything organic including grass clippings, paper, vegetable peelings, and leaves. Turn the compost once or twice in a month using a rake to keep the compost heap aerated.
5. Trees and ShrubsPrune your trees and deciduous shrubs and remove any dead and sickly-looking leaves or branches. This stimulates new plant growth and spring flowering. Be sure to fertilize and mulch your trees and shrubs. Add the organic mulch in a circle surrounding the plant rather than layering it on the trunk. This will not only provide the plants with the nutrients they need for optimum growth, but it will also conserve moisture and encourage strong hardy drought-resistant roots. If you want to add any tree or shrub to your garden, now is the time to do it. You can visit your nearby plant nursery or even order online.
6. Fertilize and Reseed Your LawnApply slow-release fertilizer on your lawn this early spring. As the name suggests, ‘slow-release’ means the fertilizer that is slowly released into the soil over a long period. After fertilizing, reseed all patches of dead or damaged grass in your lawn and water well. The new seeds will require sufficient moisture for optimum growth.
December
Here are a few suggestions to bring a little Spring into your home early:
Forcing Bulbs Indoors
Force spring-blooming bulbs indoors so you can enjoy their beauty ahead of schedule.
Enjoy the beauty of spring-flowering bulbs ahead of schedule by forcing them indoors. You can plant daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and more in pots inside where the warm temperatures give them a jumpstart on growing.
To get started, purchase an assortment of the healthiest spring-flowering bulbs you can find in the fall. Select ones that appear free from bruising and rot spots. Select larger-sized bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths, and smaller bulbs, such as grape hyacinths, crocuses and Dutch irises.
Fill a container half full of good potting soil (or create your own mix of equal parts peat moss, perlite and sand). The leaves and flowers will emerge from the pointed tip on the bulb, so place each bulb with the tip facing up in the pot. First, place the larger-sized bulbs side by side, spaced about one to two inches apart, on top of the planting mix until the pot is full. Cover the bulbs with soil, then add another layer of smaller bulbs. Try not to place the second layer of bulbs directly on top of the first layer. Cover bulbs with soil, and water well.
Place the planted bulb pots in an unheated garage, a crawlspace, a shed or any area of your home that remains dark and cool. Or place them in a prepared trench lined with a layer of straw. Cover the pots with straw.
After the appropriate period of chilling (for tulips, eight to 10 weeks; daffodils, 12 to 14 weeks; small bulbs such as crocuses, grape hyacinths and freesias, four to six weeks), bring pots indoors to a cool, sunny room. Note: if a variety of bulbs are planted in a container, allow the pot to sit outside until after the bulb with the longest chilling period has been exposed to the cold temperatures for the necessary length of time; then bring the pot indoors. Once the bulbs have finished blooming, remove the faded flowers.
If you want to save the bulbs for next year, allow the foliage to completely die back before removing the bulbs from the windowsill and ultimately their flower pots. This gives each bulb time to convert the sun's energy to the nutrients it'll need to flower next year. Professionals recommend storing bulbs in a cool place for 1000 hours, or around 12 weeks. So mark your calendar to note when you put the bulbs in and when you should take them out again.
Forcing Flowering Woody Branches Indoors
Extend the season by forcing branches from spring-blooming trees and shrubs to flower indoors.
For a colorful display in midwinter, cut branches from spring-blooming trees and shrubs and bring them inside. With a little bit of help, you can force them to bloom earlier indoors.
Pussy willows are a good choice for forcing inside. The stems are tough and woody, so crush the cut end with a hammer or cut into it with clippers to help the branches take up water once they're placed in a vase. Cherry, flowering quince and forsythia stems can also be cut and forced in the same way.
Place prepared stems in a vase of warm water in a well-lighted room. A drop or two of hydrogen peroxide will speed the blooming process. If you want the blooms to last longer, place the cut branches in a cool room in low light.
You can also cut pussy willow branches off the plant at exactly the stage you want them. Bring them indoors, but don't put the branches in water. Just spray them with hairspray, arrange them in a vase or similar container and they'll last a long time.
November
In November, the Mid-Atlantic can see both moderate temperatures and some cool weather. Take full advantage of the moderate days. Your garden will appreciate the attention.
· Bring in garden tools for the winter. Clean, sharpen, and oil them first.
· Keep removing weeds. It is easier to see them now that the garden plants have died back. Now is a great time to get rid of some perennial weeds such as field horsetail.
· Keep watering until the ground freezes (after which point water is blocked from getting down to your plants' roots). Pay particular attention to those trees and shrubs you just put in the ground this fall.
· In zone 7, plant spring bulbs.
Northerners can also treat November as a time to evaluate their garden layout. After the cold weather lays everything bare, you can more clearly see the architecture or "bones" of the garden. This is a great time to record critiques of your garden in a garden journal, so that, for next year, you can plan to add hardscape or evergreen shrubs to improve the architecture.
Perform these November garden tasks according to region, whether it be to plant something, to tidy things up, or to decorate for the holidays.
· Rake leaves off the lawn to use in making leaf mold, mulch, or compost.
· Add organic matter to flower borders and other garden beds.
· Cover your compost pile so that the rain does not leach out its nutrients.
October
October Garden Chores: Cutting Back Your Gardens
· Hostas (2” from the ground)
· Yarrow (1” from the ground)
· Peonies (all the way to the ground)
· Coreopsis (6” from the ground)
· Bee Balm (all the way to the ground)
· Daylilies (4” from the ground)
· Hydrangea, depending on the variety
· Iris (4” from the ground)
Put away or covering garden furniture.
Get tools ready for storage.
Ideal time for fertilizing your lawn, but not your trees or shrubs.
Rake leaves from your lawn now to prevent disease and prepare your grass for easy spring growth. If there are bare areas, seed in the fall and cover with a layer of compost for a jumpstart on early spring growth.
The cooler air and warm ground temperatures make fall an ideal time to add perennials to your garden. Fall-planted perennials will experience less transplant shock and have plenty of time to acclimate their roots to your garden before the winter. Once the ground warms, the new plants will grow bigger and bloom more profusely than if planted in the spring.
Planting Bulbs in October
Some of the most colorful spring bloomers — including tulips, daffodils, allium, and more — require a wintering over period in order to bloom. October is the time to get these bulbs in the ground.
September
- Start fall clean-up in the flower beds, cutting back anything that has finished blooming.
- Continue to remove any fallen leaves and debris which can harbor insect pests and disease organisms.
- Prune rambler roses.
- Prune to remove any diseased and dead rose canes.
- Fertilize roses one last time.
- Continue to divide and transplant early blooming perennials.
- Sow hardy annuals in prepared planting beds.
- Continue to apply deer repellent.
- Continue to propagate herbs from new growth and transplant into pots for winter use.
- Collect seed from perennials and annuals.
- Continue to cut flowers for drying - yarrow, strawflower, cockscomb, etc.
- Remove and compost spent annuals and fallen leaves.
- Complete ordering spring flowering bulbs and other plants for fall planting.
- If weather is cool, begin planting spring- flowering bulbs but wait until late October to plant tulips.
- Plant late season annuals like ornamental kale and cabbage for fall color.
- Photograph your gardens and containers for a record of the year's triumphs.
- Begin to feed birds.
- Begin to force poinsettias for Christmas. Move indoors to a sunny location and cover for 14 hours each night for a period of 6-10 weeks.
August
Some plants thrive as summer heats up. If your perennial beds lack color, try a few of these plants that flower through sweltering August afternoons. All are drought-tolerant once established.
Black-eyed Susan brightens the garden with cheery yellow blooms perfect for cutting. It's a good choice for a wildlife garden. Flowers beckon butterflies; seed heads are a goldfinch favorite.
Russian sage unfurls silvery foliage accented with lavender blooms. Plants are deer resistant.
Thread leaf tickseed opens daisy like blooms in shades of yellow, white, or pink. Low-maintenance plants have fine foliage and open flowers steadily until frost.
Yarrow sounds a steady note of drought-resistant color in the summer garden. Look for flowers in many shades, from white, to red, to peach, to yellow.
Garden Tip: Even the most reliable summer bloomers stage a stronger show when you faithfully remove faded flowers.
August Watering TipsWater plants a few hours before applying pesticides, especially during times of drought. In these conditions, plants have less water in tissues, and as pesticides enter cells, they may burn leaves. Avoid watering during midday, when more water will evaporate than soak into soil. It's not uncommon for plants to wilt on hot afternoons even though soil has adequate moisture. The wilting occurs because plants are losing water faster than their roots can absorb it. Leaves should revive by early evening, after the sun is no longer directly on leaves. If not, water deeply. Some shrubs need weekly deep watering now. Rhododendrons are beginning to form flower buds for next year's show, and adequate water is vital. Fruiting plants, such as hollies and firethorn, need water to ensure berries mature and don't drop.
Garden Tip: Water newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials -- any plants you added to your yard last fall or spring. These plants need weekly irrigation to ensure roots establish deeply.
Fertilizing roses. Stop feeding roses this month so that growth can harden sufficiently before killing frost arrives. This will help reduce the amount of winter kill.
Pruning evergreens. As August arrives, put away the pruners as far as evergreens are concerned. If you prune now, you risk plants pushing new growth, which won't harden off and will be killed during winter's chill.
Pull annuals that are past their prime and aren't likely to recover. Cover bare soil to deter weeds.
Take cuttings of plants you want to overwinter. Choices may include fuchsia, scented geranium, coleus, or wax begonia. Stick 3- to 4-inch green stem cuttings in soil. Place pots in a shaded spot and keep soil moist.
Make sure mower height is raised so you're cutting grass higher. When grass is taller, it shades soil beneath, which reduces water evaporation from soil. Taller grass generally has deeper roots, which helps it withstand drought better.
September is peony planting time. That means August is the month to order peony roots. You should have peonies in the ground about a month before the average first frost date.
July
July means mid-summer. That spells oppressive conditions for both plants and people.
Mid-summer is a good time to take stock of the garden and consider suitable adjustments for next year's garden.
Fertilize heat-resistant perennials.
(Mid-July:) Pinch mums one last time. Pinching later in the summer would reduce the blooms that you are counting on for fall displays.
Pick blueberries before the wild birds eat them. The most common way gardeners have of protecting blueberries from birds is by covering them with nets.
There will likely be extended heat waves in July. Keep your plants adequately watered to avoid losing your investment of time, energy, and money in them.
Pick up annuals that garden centers put on sale. You can revitalize them during July and August and have them ready for autumn flower beds.
Check your automatic irrigation system: It needs to be functioning properly during the peak of the summer heat.
The hottest weather is in July. Save beach trips for the worst days, but water before you leave. This month also calls for stepping back and taking stock of what is in bloom, with an eye to adding to that floral color in future years.
The abundance of shrubs and perennials in bloom in spring is just a memory now. You have plants such as garden phlox getting ready to flower now, and, soon the flowers of rose of sharon will furnish your yard with interest. But look for other options to inject color into your yard.
Check garden centers for annuals such as sweet alyssum that have been put on sale. They may not look like much now, but you can bring them back to health with some TLC and use them in fall plantings.
Harvest vegetables and berries regularly.
June
Here are a few June gardening tasks and projects that you can do to help keep your garden looking it’s best for the rest of this season.
Annuals, Perennials and Bulbs in the Garden
Has your spring been somewhat less than a sunny gardener’s delight?
“Color Spots” may be your quickest and easiest way of improving your garden. Color spots are easy care, blooming size annuals that the nurseries have grown in 4 inch pots.
They have taken care of the feeding, pinching and early care for you. The result is a
nicely branched plant, blooming and ready to set in the garden. You will be able to see
what your flower will look like before you even pick it out, and have some early colors before
the sun sets.
Prepare the soil, water the new plants before you remove them from the pot; plant the color
spots at the recommended spacing on the label, water them again.
The Results: I N S T A N T C O L O R!
Pinch back any annuals, fuchsias, geraniums, cosmos, or any other plants that might be getting a little leggy.
Pinch your chrysanthemums to encourage them to be bushier and have more blossoms.
Pinch them again, every 6 inches or so, as they grow.
This is an excellent month to pick out a few new perennials, and plant them in the garden.
Divide spring flowering perennials like primroses, arabis, and aubrietia.
Once the soil has warmed, you can sow seeds for perennials directly into the garden.
Check your roses for mildew, aphid, black-spot or other disease problems or insect infestations, and if they appear, take steps to control them right away. Your roses will need to be fertilized each month through the summer. Make sure your climbing roses are securely tied into position. Prune them after blooming.
Deadhead your annuals to encourage continued flowering.
Remove dead foliage from your spring flowering bulbs, but only after it has died back naturally. Once the foliage of daffodils has died back, you may divide and move the bulbs to a new spot. Daffodil cluster should be divided up every 3 years to ensure good blooming.
Stake tall flowers to keep them from blowing over in the wind. Add a stake to each planting hole as you are transplanting, and tie the stem loosely to the stake as the plant grows
This is a good month for shearing, pinching or pruning junipers, cypress or conifers. If you’ve been cultivating a special living Christmas tree, sculpt it now.
Dead head the developing seed pods from your rhododendrons and azaleas to improve next year’s bloom. Be careful not to damage next year’s buds which may be hidden just below the pod.
Now sit back and relax for a little bit while you enjoy your June garden.
May
May is one of the busiest gardening months. It’s a time when our gardens come alive and start bursting with blooms, and it's also a big month for planting wildflowers, perennials, tender summer months.
May is the perfect time to add wildflowers to your garden on even to replace part of your lawn. The most important step in planting wildflowers is making sure that you prepare the area and remove all existing growth. Wildflowers grow best when planted on bare soil. The wildflower possibilities are endless and May is the time to get seeds planted for summer blooms!
If you’re looking to add perennials to an existing garden bed or start a new perennial bed, now is the time to plant. The best varieties to plant in spring are bareroots or those with minimal growth. The smaller the plant, the more the root system can grow and become acclimated to your garden.
When May comes around it’s time to get working in the beds to make sure your plants have a healthy start in the season. Keep up with weeding: This is extremely important! The more you identify and remove weeds when they’re small, the easier your battle will be throughout the season. Take photos of weed seedlings to keep on file for next season to make sure you don’t mix them up with your perennial plants.
Fertilize your flowering perennials in early spring to help give them a boost. We recommend using an organic fertilizer.
If you have perennial or annual vines, or top-heavy varieties like peonies, make sure to set up your trellises and supports in the early season.
Make sure to add trellises and supports you took down before winter for your climbing vines like clematis.
Spring flower maintenance: Deadhead spent spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils, but leave foliage intact until it has died back. Once the plants turn brown, you can cut them back to the ground. This is important as the foliage dying back helps recharge the bulbs for next year’s growth
For your first lawn mowing of the season, leave the grass clippings on top of the lawn to help add nitrogen back to your soil.
Prune shrubs like lilacs and forsythia after they’ve finished blooming.
Start your garden journal: As things start to come alive and bloom in your garden, make sure to keep records in your garden journal. Take note of when things start to bloom, varieties you divided and transplanted, as well as the growth of new varieties in your garden. This is important to compare your notes to last season and to help you plan for the years ahead.
May often brings some of the most beautiful weather of the entire season: warm, breezy days aren’t stifling hot and the mornings are still cool. Enjoy this time in your garden and try to take it all in; the fragrant lilacs, elegant bleeding hearts, and classic bearded iris are just some of the treasures of the May garden that should be appreciated. And remember, the more work you do to pull weeds, mulch, and give your plants a healthy start to the season, the less work you’ll have to do in the hot June or July garden.
April
A Secret to Keep Hydrangeas from Wilting
You see a gorgeous bunch of hydrangeas at the market. Put them in your cart, maybe even grab a second bunch because they are so pretty and full. You get home, you cut them to fit your vase and put them in fresh water and by morning- those fluffy blooms are wilted.
There are a few things you can do to keep those flowers blooming and to keep them looking great for several weeks. One of the great things about hydrangeas is that they are long lasting cut flowers. As long as you know how to keep the water reaching them.
Have you ever noticed that when you place those freshly purchased hydrangeas in water (without cutting them) that the water gets soaked up and is gone in a short amount of time? That is because hydrangeas love to Hydrate. They are big water lovers and that water is what keeps those blooms looking so fabulous. They are also healers. So to speak. When you cut a hydrangea, it covers that cut to heal itself. Think of your skin and kind of what it does when you cut yourself. It sends helpers to re-grow and cover that area so that it can repair itself. The hydrangea does the same thing. But in their case- that is the problem.
That film that leaks and covers the fresh cut- blocks the water from drawing up into the stem and to the bloom.
And no water = wilting.
So, this is where the secret I use comes in.
A little spice called ALUM.
A local florist told me to cut, dip and plop in water every single time. And if those hydrangeas wilt even so, fill the sink with water and soak the heads in it for several hours. Yes, the blooms- not the stems.
Alum is a spice that I believe is used for pickling or the like. But it keeps the stem from sealing up and keeps the water being absorbed by the flower and so- pretty blooms. Cut your hydrangea stem on a nice wide angle to allow as much water as possible into the stem- and dip the entire cut area in Alum and then put the stem into fresh water.
You can use this trick several times- and I do recommend it anytime you change the water. Re-cut and re-alum.
March
March and April is a good time to plant foe summer. March is the month when planting gets under way. Lilies look fantastic in the summer border, They make a great statement, tall and often scented and good companion plants. March is the right time to get the bulbs going in pots which is much cheaper than buying plants later in the year. Pick a good-sized pot and fill with suitable compost, plant 3 bulbs per pot and cover with more compost.
Keep the bulbs in a sheltered spot or in the greenhouse until they are established. The pots are ideal for placing on the patio to enjoy the scent or filling up gaps in the borders.
March is a good time to cut back perennials before the new growth gets too advanced which can make it difficult to cut back without damaging the new growth.
Pruning in March For roses, March is the time to prune Bush and Shrub varieties and it is easier than it seems. Look at the plant, remove anything that looks unhealthy. This means removing any branches which are spindly, or don't look good, prune them away. Look at remaining framework, on each major branch look for a bud which faces outwards (away from the plant) cut on a slope just above. It's a good idea if you have time to feed the Roses after pruning.
Prune Hydrangeas removing the spent flower heads and cut down to a bud.
Last chance to prune Wisteria which is essential to keep it flowering.
Plant snow drops for next year.
If this winter you went for an inspiring snow drop walk, March is the time to plant snowdrops. They are best planted "in the green" which is as small plants not bulbs. It can be harder to get snowdrops established from bulbs so better to buy plants now and plant in clumps. Snowdrops are a woodland plant which means they do not like too much sun and are best planted in an area which gets some shade, close to or under a shrub always looks nice.
Sow annuals for a summer display
The advantage of sowing annuals from seed is that you can buy a wide range of seeds and grow plants which you rarely see in the garden center. The specialist seed catalogues have a fantastic range of seeds and its great fun to grow something unusual. An exotic annual to grow is Ipomoea also called morning glory which produces delicate and attractive trumpet shaped flowers.
Gardener’s December To-Do List
December can be a quiet month in the garden, but there are more things to take care of than you might think. With limited daylight hours as we approach the shortest day of the year, this month’s crisp wintery weather can be strikingly beautiful and bitterly cold in equal measure.
Prune dormant trees and shrubs, and winter-flowering shrubs after they finish blooming.
Dig over empty borders and prepare your soil for next year’s planting.
Group potted plants together in a sheltered spot in the garden to protect them from the harshest winter weather.
Get pruning - wisteria, fruit trees, roses and Japanese maples are just some of the plants that benefit from a winter prune.
Look after the birds - clean feeders, stock up on fat balls and make sure they have access to fresh water.
Leave the faded flower heads on your hydrangeas until spring, as they provide frost protection to the swelling buds further down the stems.
Harvest holly with berries for making Christmas garlands and wreaths. Stand them in a bucket of water until you're ready to use them.
Order your flower seeds and vegetable seeds for next year - reflect on what worked well this year and what didn't, and don’t be afraid to try new ideas.
Take an inventory of tools and equipment that you need for next year. Add them to your Christmas list!
Now sit back and relax in your most comfortable easy chair in front of the fireplace, cup of freshly brewed tea in hand, and wait for Christmas. It will be here before you know it.
December can be a quiet month in the garden, but there are more things to take care of than you might think. With limited daylight hours as we approach the shortest day of the year, this month’s crisp wintery weather can be strikingly beautiful and bitterly cold in equal measure.
Prune dormant trees and shrubs, and winter-flowering shrubs after they finish blooming.
Dig over empty borders and prepare your soil for next year’s planting.
Group potted plants together in a sheltered spot in the garden to protect them from the harshest winter weather.
Get pruning - wisteria, fruit trees, roses and Japanese maples are just some of the plants that benefit from a winter prune.
Look after the birds - clean feeders, stock up on fat balls and make sure they have access to fresh water.
Leave the faded flower heads on your hydrangeas until spring, as they provide frost protection to the swelling buds further down the stems.
Harvest holly with berries for making Christmas garlands and wreaths. Stand them in a bucket of water until you're ready to use them.
Order your flower seeds and vegetable seeds for next year - reflect on what worked well this year and what didn't, and don’t be afraid to try new ideas.
Take an inventory of tools and equipment that you need for next year. Add them to your Christmas list!
Now sit back and relax in your most comfortable easy chair in front of the fireplace, cup of freshly brewed tea in hand, and wait for Christmas. It will be here before you know it.
November
November is a great time to evaluate your garden layout. You can clearly see the architecture or bones of your garden. If the view of your garden is less than inspiring or non-existent in winter, you should make some notes to add more definition in terms of things like structures, evergreens, or other architectural elements.
General November Garden CareRake leaves and make compost.
Clean, sharpen, and oil garden tools.
Finish winterizing your water garden.
Start forcing bulbs like paperwhites, hyacinth, and amaryllis for the holidays.
Add organic matter to beds.
Cover compost so that rain doesn't flood and leach the nutrients.
Keep weeding. It's easier to see the weeds once the garden plants die back. Now is a great time to get rid of some perennial weeds that stay green all year.
Keep watering, until the ground freezes. Pay particular attention to anything you planted late in the season.
General November Garden CareRake leaves and make compost.
Clean, sharpen, and oil garden tools.
Finish winterizing your water garden.
Start forcing bulbs like paperwhites, hyacinth, and amaryllis for the holidays.
Add organic matter to beds.
Cover compost so that rain doesn't flood and leach the nutrients.
Keep weeding. It's easier to see the weeds once the garden plants die back. Now is a great time to get rid of some perennial weeds that stay green all year.
Keep watering, until the ground freezes. Pay particular attention to anything you planted late in the season.
October
In October, gardeners have a color show unequaled in any other season. While many summer annuals are still blooming, trees begin their yearly show of fall color. Berries and nuts add polka-dots to shrub and tree borders, and fall-blooming perennials explode into bloom. The shifting angle of sunrays provides a gorgeous backlight in late afternoon, and the crisp air wakes up the senses.
- Plant bulbs. Spring-flowering bulbs—such as hyacinth, daffodils, anemone, crocus, and tulips—should be planted after the ground temperature drops below 60 degrees F.
- Label bulbs and tender perennials before they disappear for the winter.
- Watch the weather for the first killing frost – protect your fall-blooming perennials by building a simple wooden frame and cover with an old bed sheet. One night of looking tacky can prolong their blooming season by as much as a month.
- Harvest seeds from annuals and perennials.
- Tidy up woody perennials by pruning back and mulching – you may want to leave some for winter interest as long as they last, such as hosta, sedum, and ornamental grasses.
- Take cuttings from perennials to root indoors over the winter.
- Harvest pumpkins, gourds, multicolored corn, and other fall veggies to use as decorations.
September
Stop trimming and fertilizing.
Divide and move perennials to fill holes in the garden.
Cut back any perennial that has finished blooming or is diseased.
Dig up and store those tender bulbs like, cannas, dahlias, etc.
Start planting spring flower bulbs like, daffodils, tulips, and hyacinth.
Harvest remaining vegetables except those cold hearty varieties such as brussel sprouts, lettuce, and beets.
Great time to plant trees and shrubs, keep watered during dry spells.
Pick herbs for drying and/or freezing.
Remove diseased tomato, potato, and squash foliage to prevent disease. Do not toss these plants in the compost. Bag them up and throw away.
Remove dead branches from roses and fruit trees (no pruning yet).
August
Keep your garden beautiful during August:
Maintenance and Preparation
· Level low spots in your lawn.
· Remove weeds.
· Choose your autumn flower seeds and order in advance.
· Fertilize and fortify your lawn.
· Harvest produce regularly and hoe weekly to weaken weeds.
· Add compost and mulch to keep your garden cool and prepared for fall planting.
· Remove fallen fruit from fruit trees to limit insect infestations.
MIND THE FLOWERS· Divide and transplant spring and summer-flowering perennials after they bloom.
· Spray water onto plants to evict seasonal pests like aphids, whiteflies and spider mites.
· Remove diseased foliage before leaves drop.
· Deadhead summer-flowering perennials and lightly shear to encourage more blooms.
· Move houseplants back indoors to acclimate them to limited sun exposure.
WATER, WATER, WATER!· Water plants deeply. Avoid getting leaves wet in the direct sun and avoid soaking
containers during the hottest part of the day.
· Water before 9:00am. If you can’t water in the morning, aim for watering in the early
evening to avoid letting the water sit all night. Letting the water sit all night can cause
mildew and disease.
Looking Ahead
· Fall is for planting! Start thinking about what shrubs and trees you want to include in your
garden.
· Select and order spring flowering bulbs for pre-chilling.
· Cut or preserve your vegetables for winter use. Begin to save seeds and take cuttings.
· If you have a cold frame, make sure it is ready to use!
· When it’s planting time for your region, use colorful plastic golf tees to mark the location
of dormant plants like spring bulbs or perennials.
· Don’t forget, it’s best to work during early morning or early evening so you don’t overheat!
Maintenance and Preparation
· Level low spots in your lawn.
· Remove weeds.
· Choose your autumn flower seeds and order in advance.
· Fertilize and fortify your lawn.
· Harvest produce regularly and hoe weekly to weaken weeds.
· Add compost and mulch to keep your garden cool and prepared for fall planting.
· Remove fallen fruit from fruit trees to limit insect infestations.
MIND THE FLOWERS· Divide and transplant spring and summer-flowering perennials after they bloom.
· Spray water onto plants to evict seasonal pests like aphids, whiteflies and spider mites.
· Remove diseased foliage before leaves drop.
· Deadhead summer-flowering perennials and lightly shear to encourage more blooms.
· Move houseplants back indoors to acclimate them to limited sun exposure.
WATER, WATER, WATER!· Water plants deeply. Avoid getting leaves wet in the direct sun and avoid soaking
containers during the hottest part of the day.
· Water before 9:00am. If you can’t water in the morning, aim for watering in the early
evening to avoid letting the water sit all night. Letting the water sit all night can cause
mildew and disease.
Looking Ahead
· Fall is for planting! Start thinking about what shrubs and trees you want to include in your
garden.
· Select and order spring flowering bulbs for pre-chilling.
· Cut or preserve your vegetables for winter use. Begin to save seeds and take cuttings.
· If you have a cold frame, make sure it is ready to use!
· When it’s planting time for your region, use colorful plastic golf tees to mark the location
of dormant plants like spring bulbs or perennials.
· Don’t forget, it’s best to work during early morning or early evening so you don’t overheat!
July
July gardening chores run the gamut. If only July were more predictable in the garden. It doesn't matter how wet the spring was, rain can become very elusive in July. Humidity begins to peak. So there's no definitive list of gardening chores for the July garden. Gardeners just have to play it by ear. Most importantly, keep a close eye on pests and disease, then sit back and enjoy your garden and all the efforts you put in earlier in the year to get it where it is now.
Prune spring flowering shrubs early in the month, then leave them alone to set buds for next year. Summer and fall flowering shrubs should not be pruned unless badly overgrown while non-blooming hedges can be trimmed as need.
Deadhead roses and other flowering shrubs so they will continue blooming
Apply extra mulch around the roots of trees and shrubs to hold in moisture.
For fall blooms, shear back chrysanthemums and asters until mid-month at the latest..
Support vines and tall plants with trellises or stakes.
Cut flowers in the early morning when the stems are plump.
Continue mowing as needed, at the highest setting for your lawn type (3”- 4” for cool-season grasses, 2”- 3” for warm-season grasses).
Make sure your lawn gets at least one inch of water per week.
Prune spring flowering shrubs early in the month, then leave them alone to set buds for next year. Summer and fall flowering shrubs should not be pruned unless badly overgrown while non-blooming hedges can be trimmed as need.
Deadhead roses and other flowering shrubs so they will continue blooming
Apply extra mulch around the roots of trees and shrubs to hold in moisture.
For fall blooms, shear back chrysanthemums and asters until mid-month at the latest..
Support vines and tall plants with trellises or stakes.
Cut flowers in the early morning when the stems are plump.
Continue mowing as needed, at the highest setting for your lawn type (3”- 4” for cool-season grasses, 2”- 3” for warm-season grasses).
Make sure your lawn gets at least one inch of water per week.
June
Elements of French Garden Design
The classic French garden invokes images of bright lavender, ordered gravel paths, calm reflecting pools, symmetrical planting beds of boxwoods and shrubs – maybe a stone bench waiting for someone to rest on it. The Old World charm of French gardens fits beautifully with classic country homes and chateaus or today’s modern styles.
The Basic Elements of a French Garden
Above all else, symmetry and geometry are the main hallmarks of French gardens, imposing order over nature. French gardens usually incorporate a cool color palette that emphasizes greens and whites—think boxwood and stone gravel pathways. Rows of lavender bring in purple and reflecting pools the cool blues. Because ornamental flowers were rare in France in the 17th century, the color palette was limited. Trees, bushes, and topiary had to stand out in other ways, so they were trimmed in geometric forms. For décor, the greys and blues of an iron bench, pergola, or trellis reinforce the cool color scheme. Introducing water features like reflecting ponds, pools and fountains plays up the geometric patterns as they are often in circular or rectangular shapes.
French Design For All
The hallmarks of a French garden can be seen in more formal and strict gardens like the grand ones at Versailles or as simple as a potager, or kitchen garden. Planting beds are sectioned off for specific herbs and plants meant for cooking. Potagers are more practical, but their design borrows from the rich tradition of French formal gardens. Upkeep will require regular maintenance for any garden using this style. Provencal style gardens overflow with color and have a charming wildness to them, but also incorporate the same elements of stone, boxwood, and water features. Precise care and control are required for traditional French design, but the results are fantastic. French garden design continues to attract garden lovers and inspire gardens all around the world.
May
A Study in Perennials from Martha Stewart
Perennials, the herbaceous plants that return and put on a show year after year, are considered by many to be the superstars of the garden. These come-back friends--peonies being among the most popular—accent and complement the bones of the garden, which typically consists of woody trees and shrubs.
Their vast array of shapes, sizes, and blossoms in every color of the rainbow make these plants a landscaping must-have. What's more, their beauty blends into any garden style—from cottage to xeriscape to Asian Zen—and you'll find a variety of options no matter what kind of sun exposure you have (although we're partial to the sun-loving varieties ahead). When designing a garden, and particularly when incorporating these versatile plants into the mix, remember to combine perennials with different flowering periods to ensure a continuous show of blooms all year long. You'll also want to make sure you provide plenty of space for perennials to spread because they're constantly growing and don't like being overcrowded, a gardening pitfall which can lead to disease and an unhealthy environment.
According to the Royal Horticultural Society, there's no better time to plant perennials than in the spring, since that's when the soil tends to be moist, rather than dry or water-logged. With spring approaching—and gardens beginning to come awake—we understand that gardeners are ready to roll up their sleeves and get their gloves dirty. Luckily, now is the perfect time to think about adding some tried-and-true flowering favorites to your outdoor spaces. Read on to learn about eight sun-loving perennials, perfect for announcing the fresh new season ahead.
A few rules to follow:
Know what to plant.
The best perennials are those that are known to thrive in your particular area's growing conditions. Some do well with eight hours or more of daily sun exposure, while others crave partial shade. Also take into consideration colors, textures, maintenance level.
Prepare the soil.
Soil is the lifeblood of any garden, so make sure yours is as robust as it can be. Add organic matter such as peat moss or compost to pump it up.
Plant them.
Water the plant before planting, as dry roots can be brittle and become damaged. Dig a hole larger than the pot you are planting, which allows for better root development. Once you have dug your hole, backfill the hole slightly so that the plant is set at roughly the same depth as it was in the pot, with the crown just at the surface of the soil. If buried too deep, you risk rotting the crown (the point where the stems and leaves meet the roots).
Now sit back and wait for the garden to be drowned in color and beauty!
Perennials, the herbaceous plants that return and put on a show year after year, are considered by many to be the superstars of the garden. These come-back friends--peonies being among the most popular—accent and complement the bones of the garden, which typically consists of woody trees and shrubs.
Their vast array of shapes, sizes, and blossoms in every color of the rainbow make these plants a landscaping must-have. What's more, their beauty blends into any garden style—from cottage to xeriscape to Asian Zen—and you'll find a variety of options no matter what kind of sun exposure you have (although we're partial to the sun-loving varieties ahead). When designing a garden, and particularly when incorporating these versatile plants into the mix, remember to combine perennials with different flowering periods to ensure a continuous show of blooms all year long. You'll also want to make sure you provide plenty of space for perennials to spread because they're constantly growing and don't like being overcrowded, a gardening pitfall which can lead to disease and an unhealthy environment.
According to the Royal Horticultural Society, there's no better time to plant perennials than in the spring, since that's when the soil tends to be moist, rather than dry or water-logged. With spring approaching—and gardens beginning to come awake—we understand that gardeners are ready to roll up their sleeves and get their gloves dirty. Luckily, now is the perfect time to think about adding some tried-and-true flowering favorites to your outdoor spaces. Read on to learn about eight sun-loving perennials, perfect for announcing the fresh new season ahead.
A few rules to follow:
Know what to plant.
The best perennials are those that are known to thrive in your particular area's growing conditions. Some do well with eight hours or more of daily sun exposure, while others crave partial shade. Also take into consideration colors, textures, maintenance level.
Prepare the soil.
Soil is the lifeblood of any garden, so make sure yours is as robust as it can be. Add organic matter such as peat moss or compost to pump it up.
Plant them.
Water the plant before planting, as dry roots can be brittle and become damaged. Dig a hole larger than the pot you are planting, which allows for better root development. Once you have dug your hole, backfill the hole slightly so that the plant is set at roughly the same depth as it was in the pot, with the crown just at the surface of the soil. If buried too deep, you risk rotting the crown (the point where the stems and leaves meet the roots).
Now sit back and wait for the garden to be drowned in color and beauty!
April
Plant Tender Bulbs in April. Tip: Plant tuberous begonia and caladium bulbs with their rounded side down. New growth emerges from the top (concave) side of the bulbs.
Select Perennial Herbs
Thyme, lavender, oregano, chives, mint, and sage are perennial herbs that can be planted in April in northern gardens. They require a sunny spot that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight a day. If you have heavy, clay soil, mix in sand and compost at planting time to improve drainage. Herbs will not thrive in wet, mucky soil. Tip: Some herbs, such as mint and thyme, are available in a wide range of flavors and scents. Do some research before you plant to customize your herb garden to your own personal taste.
Improve Lawns in April
Fix bare spots in your lawn now. Rake the area to remove dead grass or other debris. Then, seed with Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, or creeping red fescue. To help germination, barely cover the seed with soil and tamp gently. Water daily until the seed germinates. Tip: Read the label before you purchase grass seed. Look for mixes that contain less than 1 percent of “weed” or “crop” seeds. Also, never purchase grass seed that has less than a 70 percent germination rate listed on the label.
Plant Roses
Bare-root and container-grown roses can be planted in April gardens. For great color and easy care, select landscape varieties such as Knock Out. These tough-as-nails roses offer almost continuous bloom. Plus they look great paired with perennials such as black-eyed Susan, Russian sage, and catmint. Select a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. Tip: Landscape roses such as Knock Out look best planted in clumps of three or more. Repeat at intervals scattered through your garden.
Prune Spring-Flowering Bulbs
As daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips fade, clip off their flower stalks. This encourages the plants to store energy in their bulbs instead of setting seed. Just be sure to leave the foliage alone until it fades naturally. The plant needs the leaves to make energy for next year’s flowers. By the time the bulbs die back completely the annuals will have carpeted the area with blooms.
Select Perennial Herbs
Thyme, lavender, oregano, chives, mint, and sage are perennial herbs that can be planted in April in northern gardens. They require a sunny spot that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight a day. If you have heavy, clay soil, mix in sand and compost at planting time to improve drainage. Herbs will not thrive in wet, mucky soil. Tip: Some herbs, such as mint and thyme, are available in a wide range of flavors and scents. Do some research before you plant to customize your herb garden to your own personal taste.
Improve Lawns in April
Fix bare spots in your lawn now. Rake the area to remove dead grass or other debris. Then, seed with Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, or creeping red fescue. To help germination, barely cover the seed with soil and tamp gently. Water daily until the seed germinates. Tip: Read the label before you purchase grass seed. Look for mixes that contain less than 1 percent of “weed” or “crop” seeds. Also, never purchase grass seed that has less than a 70 percent germination rate listed on the label.
Plant Roses
Bare-root and container-grown roses can be planted in April gardens. For great color and easy care, select landscape varieties such as Knock Out. These tough-as-nails roses offer almost continuous bloom. Plus they look great paired with perennials such as black-eyed Susan, Russian sage, and catmint. Select a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day. Tip: Landscape roses such as Knock Out look best planted in clumps of three or more. Repeat at intervals scattered through your garden.
Prune Spring-Flowering Bulbs
As daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips fade, clip off their flower stalks. This encourages the plants to store energy in their bulbs instead of setting seed. Just be sure to leave the foliage alone until it fades naturally. The plant needs the leaves to make energy for next year’s flowers. By the time the bulbs die back completely the annuals will have carpeted the area with blooms.
March 2019
Trees, shrubs and climbers
It's still okay to plant deciduous hedging plants, shrubs and trees.
As a general rule, you can prune deciduous shrubs between January and March (before they flower in summer).
March is a good month to plant roses.
Prune standard and brush roses as they start growing before the leaves start to unfurl.
Don’t prune any spring-flowering shrubs until after they have flowered or you will lose this year’s display.
Cut out any branches with leaves of one color on a variegated plant. Eventually leaves revert to only one color and lose interest.
Flowers
Want some summer color in your garden? Now is the time to plant summer flowering plants.
Cutting off the old leaves from hellebores at ground level will expose the flowers and reduce the chance of foliar diseases.
Plant herbaceous perennials.
Cut back ornamental grasses and other perennials to make way for new growth.
Plant summer-flowering bulbs.
Divide hostas before the leaves appear but don’t divide hellebores until after they have flowered.
Keep deadheading winter bedding plants such winter-flowering pansies to prolong your display.
December 2018
Gardener’s December To-Do List
In December, many of us turn our attention to the holidays, to lights and wreaths and cheerful displays that will chase away the darkness of the short, cold days. Late December marks the winter solstice, the longest night of the year, and we officially turn the corner into the season of winter.
Gardeners begin to find some rest in December, and if you’re like me, the fireplace beckons more loudly than the yard. Nonetheless, on sunny days it’s good to get outdoors and to take care of a few gardening chores during the month.
In December, many of us turn our attention to the holidays, to lights and wreaths and cheerful displays that will chase away the darkness of the short, cold days. Late December marks the winter solstice, the longest night of the year, and we officially turn the corner into the season of winter.
Gardeners begin to find some rest in December, and if you’re like me, the fireplace beckons more loudly than the yard. Nonetheless, on sunny days it’s good to get outdoors and to take care of a few gardening chores during the month.
- Prune dormant trees and shrubs, and winter-flowering shrubs after they finish blooming.
- Take cuttings to root indoors.
- Firmly stake leggy shrubs and saplings to prevent breakage in winter weather.
- Gently remove snow from boughs only if it is heavy enough to threaten breakage – otherwise leave it for insulation. Do not attempt to remove ice.
- Water plants if there has been insufficient rain, or if your plants are protected under eaves or larger trees.
- If you’ve been chilling bulbs for winter forcing, they can be brought out once they have plenty of roots and have been chilled for 2-4 months.
- Continue planting spring bulbs as long as the ground isn’t frozen.
- Plant gift bulbs—such as amaryllis and paper whites—in containers.
- Even cool-season grasses are going dormant by now. Keep leaves picked up, or mulch some into the lawn. Minimize the stress on your lawn by raking gently.
- Avoid walking or driving on frozen grass.
November
The winding down in our gardens is well under way, and a beautiful time of reflection and rest lies ahead…if only we can get the place cleaned up before really harsh weather says “stop.”
It is prime transplanting time for deciduous trees and shrubs continues into this month, sometimes longer if weather permits and the ground shows not signs of freezing. Make that work include some focus on the addition of fall and winter plants to the landscape.
Keep watering woody plants until frost is on the ground if conditions are dry, so that they enter dormancy in a well-hydrated state.
Parsley and chives can be potted up and brought indoors for offseason use. A few garlic cloves in a pot will yield a supply of chive-like garlic greens all winter for garnish. Put on sunny windowsill.
Protect roses from winter damage by mounding up their crowns with a 6- to 12-inch layer of soil before the ground freezes. After all is frozen, add a layer of leaf mulch to further insulate.
Pay special attention to areas around peonies, roses, irises and other flowers that are prone to fungal diseases. Cut down iris foliage and rake well under roses.
Last call for bulb orders. Remember early, middle and late mantra when ordering. And think drifts, not onesies and threesies.
It is prime transplanting time for deciduous trees and shrubs continues into this month, sometimes longer if weather permits and the ground shows not signs of freezing. Make that work include some focus on the addition of fall and winter plants to the landscape.
Keep watering woody plants until frost is on the ground if conditions are dry, so that they enter dormancy in a well-hydrated state.
Parsley and chives can be potted up and brought indoors for offseason use. A few garlic cloves in a pot will yield a supply of chive-like garlic greens all winter for garnish. Put on sunny windowsill.
Protect roses from winter damage by mounding up their crowns with a 6- to 12-inch layer of soil before the ground freezes. After all is frozen, add a layer of leaf mulch to further insulate.
Pay special attention to areas around peonies, roses, irises and other flowers that are prone to fungal diseases. Cut down iris foliage and rake well under roses.
Last call for bulb orders. Remember early, middle and late mantra when ordering. And think drifts, not onesies and threesies.
October
There is always something to do in the garden, whether it’s pruning, tidying or sowing. So here are the top gardening tasks for October.
In the flower garden
Now that colder weather is approaching, protect half-hardy plants with fleece or bring into a frost-free greenhouse, if you have one.
Lift dahlia tubers, begonia tubers and gladiolus corms to store dry over the winter months. Remove the dead foliage before storing.
Plant spring bulbs for a glorious display. Dot them through borders or naturalize them in grass.
Autumn is the ideal time to plant Clematis plant
Hardwood cuttings can be taken now from deciduous shrubs.
Harvest pumpkins before the first frost. They will quickly turn mushy if left outside.
Clear up fallen leaves regularly to allow light on the grass. Last mowing can be made this month before leaving your lawn for the winter.
Prune climbing roses and rambling roses once they’ve finished flowering and tie in the stems before autumn winds cause damage.
Clear up fallen rose leaves to prevent diseases such as black spot.
Lift and divide any overcrowded herbaceous perennials while the soil is still warm.
From your armchairTake photos of your garden as a reference point.
Take stock of this year’s gardens and make notes and sketches for next spring – a digital camera has become an invaluable garden companion.
Place your orders online for fruit trees, bushes and perennial plants – from now until the spring is the ideal time to plant them.
And while you are in that armchair, sit back, relax and enjoy some well earned time to read, sip some hot tea, look out over your garden and dream of next Spring.!!!!
September
Labor Day brings a lot of mixed emotions. Gardeners love summer! The flowers look fantastic, the vegetable garden is producing beautiful, healthy food and the pool is open! And then, before you know it, it’s September. The gardens start to die down a bit, we all begin to spend less and less time outdoors and before you know it – Fall is here.
Fall is also an amazing time for gardening. It is possible to keep the garden and your time outdoors going until the first frost? It is possible – and easy.
Plant Fall Vegetable Crops Now. Tons of veggies from lettuce to kale, broccoli, carrots and more can be planted now and harvested until frost.
Turn your summer patio into a Fall Getaway. Now is the time to enjoy that fire pit! Stock your wood shed, get together some blankets for guests to snuggle under by the fire. Add Fall planters bursting with mums to anchor the space and make it look inviting and purposeful.
Don’t prune back your ornamental grasses. The texture and sound they provide is gorgeous and works wonders in a fall or winter garden.
Plant Tulips, Daffodils and other Spring flowering bulbs now. These bulbs require a period of cold (winter). So plant them now and they will bloom next Spring.
Plant Trees, Shrubs and Perennials. Fall is a particularly good time to plant because although the air temperatures are cooler, the soil is still plenty warm for root growth.
Renovate the Lawn. Maybe you have some bare spots from the summer? Now would be the time to seed and fertilize the lawn.
Move Houseplants back inside. Fall is the time to bring them indoors.
So whether you choose to tackle one or more of these garden chores this fall, enjoy your time outdoors!
August
Here are some tips to keep your gardens healthy in the heat of August.
Pull weeds as soon as you notice them, before they go to seed in the garden. This will help reduce overwintering weeds that can wreak havoc next year.
Remove spent flowers (deadhead) on annuals, roses and perennials. Many will reward you with more blooms that continue well into fall.
Certain flowers are good candidates for drying including hydrangea blossoms, globe amaranth, celosia, straw flowers and ornamental grasses. Harvest them when they are dry in the morning but before noon when temperatures begin to get hot. With annual flowers, select those that are not fully open. Once you cut the stems, strip all the leaves and remove any damaged parts of the flower. Store them in a dry, dark, warm place, preferably one with good air circulation. Depending on the type of flower, it may take two to three weeks before they are completely dry. You can also hang them upside down to dry, or in a vase without water. Once they dry completely, the blooms should last for years, although the colors will fade over time.
Prune and remove dead branches on shrubs and small trees.
Keep new plantings (planted within the past six months) of flowers, shrubs and trees watered during hot, dry spells. Apply a fresh layer of mulch (1 to 2 inches thick) after you weed. This will help the soil maintain moisture and reduce future weed crops.
Have your soil tested. A simple soil test can help you determine which nutrients may be lacking and what you need to add (according to what you are growing.) in the way of amendments to ensure your plants will thrive. Contact your state Extension Office for more information.
Order spring flowering bulbs like daffodils and tulips. Most companies will ship them to you at the appropriate time in the fall. The soil temperature should be 60 F or cooler before you plant.
Start seeds for fall crops including spinach, lettuce and greens. Many of these will grow well into winter and tolerate light frost.
“There are no sounds that can stir the sublime emotions...like the signs and whispers of Nature.”......James Lendall Basford
July
OBSERVE WHILE WEEDING: Make notes, to plan for fall reworking of problem spots–areas that seem to invite weeds to sow with abandon, like the driveway, or other gravel surfaces, or cracks between pavers.
GARDENS NEED AN INCH OF WATER a week. Check your rain gauge to see if the heavens provided it. Soak beds deeply in the root zone, but don’t sprits with a sprayer now and again like you’re washing the car. Containers, especially smallish ones in sun, need daily attention, and periodic feeding. Be alert!
SEND IN SOIL SAMPLES for testing if you’re seeing poor results in some beds. Contact your local cooperative extension for details on how to sample and where to send it.
SPRING-FLOWERING shrubs like lilacs reach the end of their pruning window after July 4th here, otherwise risking damage to emerging buds for next year’s blooms.
THROUGH MONTH’S END, softwood cuttings of buddleia, rose-of-sharon and roses, among other shrubs, can be taken to propagate more plants inexpensively.
ARE ANNUAL VINES getting the continuing support they need, whether twine, wire, and lattice? Perennial types like Clematis may need a bit of help, too.
ORDER BULBS to get varieties you want. Remember early, middle and late bloomers when doing so.
OBSERVE WHILE WEEDING: Make notes, to plan for fall reworking of problem spots–areas that seem to invite weeds to sow with abandon, like the driveway, or other gravel surfaces, or cracks between pavers.
GARDENS NEED AN INCH OF WATER a week. Check your rain gauge to see if the heavens provided it. Soak beds deeply in the root zone, but don’t sprits with a sprayer now and again like you’re washing the car. Containers, especially smallish ones in sun, need daily attention, and periodic feeding. Be alert!
SEND IN SOIL SAMPLES for testing if you’re seeing poor results in some beds. Contact your local cooperative extension for details on how to sample and where to send it.
SPRING-FLOWERING shrubs like lilacs reach the end of their pruning window after July 4th here, otherwise risking damage to emerging buds for next year’s blooms.
THROUGH MONTH’S END, softwood cuttings of buddleia, rose-of-sharon and roses, among other shrubs, can be taken to propagate more plants inexpensively.
ARE ANNUAL VINES getting the continuing support they need, whether twine, wire, and lattice? Perennial types like Clematis may need a bit of help, too.
ORDER BULBS to get varieties you want. Remember early, middle and late bloomers when doing so.
June
Spring is a mad dash to get the garden cleaned and planted.
Come June, it may be tempting to simply sit back and enjoy your garden, but now is the time to turn to the true aspects of gardening -- tending to your plants and reaping the rewards. Keep in mind that you are not the only one who enjoys what you've planted. We're entering peak pest and problem season. So start (or refuel) your gardening engines and choose a few tasks from June's to do gardening list.
Spring is a mad dash to get the garden cleaned and planted.
Come June, it may be tempting to simply sit back and enjoy your garden, but now is the time to turn to the true aspects of gardening -- tending to your plants and reaping the rewards. Keep in mind that you are not the only one who enjoys what you've planted. We're entering peak pest and problem season. So start (or refuel) your gardening engines and choose a few tasks from June's to do gardening list.
- Work outside when it's less humid (early morning, late afternoon / evening).
- Keep new plants well watered.
- Check your mulch and reapply on bare spots before the weeds move in.
- Side dress with compost or manure or feed with fish emulsion, for mid-season pick-up.
- Check plant leaves for signs of nutrient deficiency.
- Give the compost a turn.
- Make sure the birds have fresh water in birdbaths or shallow dishes in the garden.
- Keep up on deadheading for long season bloom.
- Pinch back tall growing fall bloomers like asters, monarda and helianthus to make them stockier and full of flower buds, and so they don't bloom too early.
- If you want to prune or shear your evergreens, do so as soon as the new growth starts to turn a darker green.
- Once the wisteria finishes blooming, you can do a maintenance pruning to keep it in check.
May
Wherever you are gardening, May is sure to be a busy month. Mid-spring is a frantic time in northern hemisphere gardens. As soon as the soil warms, plants suddenly appear out of nowhere and demand attention.
You may not even need a reminder of what to do in the garden in May because it is all staring you in the face every time you walk through your garden.
But here are some suggestions of what you might not want to overlook. Don't panic. The season is just beginning.
- Treat yourself to at least 1 great new plant before the best selection at the garden center, is gone.
- Water regularly, even if rain is predicted.
- Deadhead spring-blooming bulbs, but leave their foliage until it turns yellow.
- Deadhead early spring flowers like pansies and primroses as the blossoms fade and begin replacing them in containers with warm weather bloomers.
- Give everything a good feeding, to get things growing.
- Divide crowded perennials and share.
- Make sure tall perennials are staked.
Trees & Shrubs
- Check out spring flowering trees and shrubs while they are in bloom and make notes for future purchases.
- Plant or transplant trees and shrubs before the heat of summer.
- Start digging that pond you've been talking about.
- Clean and store bird feeders.
- Turn the compost, and use any that is ready.
- Rip out invasive plants while the soil is damp, before they spread even further.
April
April is National Gardening Month and our garden will soon come alive. Spring has sprung.
Clean Up – Clean up any leaves from last fall. Get them out of your garden and off the grass.
Perennials – Cut back any perennials before they start to grow again, including ornamental grass.
Planning – Make plans for your garden. What colors would you like to add? Where will you extend your garden? Where can you place new planters or add a new flowering shrub?
Fertilize – Give your evergreens a boost with Hollytone. Cultivate, add fertilizer and compost to old and new annuals. Violas are an old time favorite! Whether you prefer a
profusion of tiny faced violas or a few large faced pansies, these plants are a must in planters, hanging baskets or anywhere you could use a spark of color in your garden. They will add color to your garden from late March to late May. Come May, it is safe to plant more color with annuals. They are great flowers to press too!!!
New Additions – Visit your local nurseries often to see what is in bloom. You would not want to miss out on the early blooming shrubs, such as Flowering Quince, Flowering Almond, Daphne and Witch Hazel. They also add perfume to your spring garden.
Spring is here. Enjoy!
March
Hello March! Let Spring Begin!!!!! March is the month when many of the beautiful spring flowering perennials and shrubs begin to bloom. Aubrietia, Candytuft, Rock Cress, Begonia, Snowdrops, Witch Hazel and many others will soon be brightening your days. With Spring just around the corner, it is time to get serious and get the garden ready! The fickle weather of March makes it impossible to set exact dates and schedules for planting, so proceed with caution! You can still safely transplant Azaleas and other small shrubs as long as the flower buds haven't swelled or broken open. Fertilize shrubs and trees if this wasn't done in February. Use an acid type rhododendron fertilizer to feed evergreens, conifers, broad leaf evergreens, Camellias, Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Use an all-purpose fertilizer to feed Roses and other deciduous trees and shrubs. Finish pruning fruit trees this month - before the buds swell!
Annuals, Perennials and Bulbs in the GardenThere is often a strong temptation to start removing winter mulches from your flower beds.... WAIT!!! Pull the mulch off gradually as the plants show signs of new growth. The purpose of winter mulch is to act as a protector from sudden changes of temperature and chilling winds, so keep in mind that it is still winter. Acclimatize your plants by removing the mulch over a period of days, allowing the light and air to reach the new growth slowly.
It is much better to remove the mulch a little later than to remove it too early.Roses can be pruned this month. Severe pruning results in nicer long stemmed flowers and more compact bushes. Begin to spray roses for black spot. Feed roses.
Plant tender bulbs and tubers like Gladiolas, Lilies and Dahlias. You can continue planting additional bulbs every two weeks until mid June to ensure a continuous source of bloom. Divide Snowdrops while in leaf. Remove all spent blooms from bulbs, but leave the foliage in place. Fertilize any bulbs that have finished blooming with bone meal or bulb booster.
Plant Primroses and Pansies. Pinch off tips of Sweet Pea seedlings and Chrysanthemums when they are 4 inches tall.
Odds and ends
The most dreaded task of all is weeding, but it is one that really needs to be accomplished before the weeds have a chance to flower and go to seed. Remember once the weeds go to seed you can be fighting that weed seed for up to seven years or more. Most weeds can simply be pulled or cultivated out of the garden while they are young.
Turn the compost pile, adding any course mulch which was removed from the garden. Clean, so that they will be ready when the birds return.
And get ready and peek around the corner - Spring is on its way!!!!!!!
Gardener’s December To-Do List
- Restock bird feeders.
- Review your notes from last year’s growing season.
- Begin planning next year’s garden.
- Browse through new seed catalogues and order early.
- Collect the seed pods and seed heads gathered earlier – wrap
up some to give as holiday gifts.
- Take photos of your property to decide what needs changing.
- Make holiday decorations from holly and evergreen prunings.
- Force some paper white narcissus bulbs: Put tem in a bowl with
pebbles and water, set the bowl in a bright, cool window, then
enjoy the show.
- Use cut Christmas tree limbs to protect tender perennial beds.
- Remember it’s your last chance to gather leaves for mulching.
composting or digging into the soil.
- And, most importantly, enjoy your winter garden, especially when
it is sculptured in snow!
- Restock bird feeders.
- Review your notes from last year’s growing season.
- Begin planning next year’s garden.
- Browse through new seed catalogues and order early.
- Collect the seed pods and seed heads gathered earlier – wrap
up some to give as holiday gifts.
- Take photos of your property to decide what needs changing.
- Make holiday decorations from holly and evergreen prunings.
- Force some paper white narcissus bulbs: Put tem in a bowl with
pebbles and water, set the bowl in a bright, cool window, then
enjoy the show.
- Use cut Christmas tree limbs to protect tender perennial beds.
- Remember it’s your last chance to gather leaves for mulching.
composting or digging into the soil.
- And, most importantly, enjoy your winter garden, especially when
it is sculptured in snow!
November
Winter is the best time to examine the bones of your garden.
With the leaves on deciduous plants gone, you can see where you need structure, where you need evergreens and where you need to prune. You also have time out from planting and harvesting when you can think about building structures, such as walkways, decks, raised beds or seating areas. Our generally mild winters are a plus in this, as you can get outside even in January to mess with lumber, edging or stepping stones. Go out, stare at your gardening space and draw a map of what is already there. Consider what you’d like to keep and what isn’t working. Envision what you’d like to see there and draw it in on your map. Draw a plan for how to build what your mind’s eye sees and make a materials list. Gather the materials and get started. Then, any day that’s warm enough to work, you’re ready.
October
Care for your lawn by raking or brushing leaves off the grass. You can also cut the grass one last time this year. Make the last cut slightly higher to protect the lawn from winter frost.
Trim hedges so they are crisp and tidy for winter.
October’s the time for clearing up. Greenhouses, ponds, and gutters may all need cleaning out; wooden garden furniture will need covering or storing for the winter and bring terracotta pots inside.
Divide herbaceous perennials. Plant some back in the ground; take others to pot up and give away to friends in the spring.
Plant bulbs for a colorful spring display. Try planting clumps of five or seven bulbs of the same variety through a border for a very effective display.
‘Plant’ prepared hyacinths in vases for winter scent and color in the house.
Enjoy the apple harvest!
Harvest pumpkins for eating as well as carving.
Care for your lawn by raking or brushing leaves off the grass. You can also cut the grass one last time this year. Make the last cut slightly higher to protect the lawn from winter frost.
Trim hedges so they are crisp and tidy for winter.
October’s the time for clearing up. Greenhouses, ponds, and gutters may all need cleaning out; wooden garden furniture will need covering or storing for the winter and bring terracotta pots inside.
Divide herbaceous perennials. Plant some back in the ground; take others to pot up and give away to friends in the spring.
Plant bulbs for a colorful spring display. Try planting clumps of five or seven bulbs of the same variety through a border for a very effective display.
‘Plant’ prepared hyacinths in vases for winter scent and color in the house.
Enjoy the apple harvest!
Harvest pumpkins for eating as well as carving.
September
It’s September already with some warm days of Indian summer but can autumn be far behind.
Take a few minutes this fall to set out several herbs that like cool weather, including parsley (flat Italian or curled), sage, rosemary, thyme, chives, lavender, cilantro, and mint. Within a few weeks, you will be rewarded with the freshest flavors for autumn meals. A pot roast placed in a crock pot with a few sprigs of fresh thyme, a crushed clove of garlic, a can of tomato sauce, and a pint of mushrooms makes a delicious entrée that will be ready when you are.
September should bring relief to gardens. It’s time to start the process of putting your garden to bed. September can be one of the busiest months in the garden. Let's just hope the weather cooperates.
- Stop pruning and fertilizing
- Bring summer vacationing houseplants back indoors while the windows are still open. Check carefully for hitchhiking pests
- Start fall clean-up in the flower beds, cutting back anything that has finished blooming or is diseased
- Take cuttings to overwinter indoors
- Start winterizing your water garden
- Watch for frost warning and cover tender plants
- Photograph your gardens and containers for a record of the year's triumphs and frustrations
- Give the compost a last turn
- Divide and move perennials
- Dig and store tender bulbs like: dahlias, caladiums, cannas and tuberous begonias
- Start planting spring flowering bulbs
- Clean up fallen fruit
- Plant trees and shrubs. Keep well watered, if there isn't sufficient rain.
August 2017
Fertilizing roses - Stop feeding roses this month so that growth can harden sufficiently before killing frost arrives. This will help reduce the amount of winter kill.
Pruning evergreens - As August arrives, put away the pruners as far as evergreens are concerned. If you prune now, you risk plants pushing new growth, which won't harden off and will be killed during winter's chill.
Pull annuals that are past their prime and aren't likely to recover. Cover bare soil to deter weeds.
Take cuttings of plants you want to overwinter. Choices may include fuchsia, scented geranium, coleus, or wax begonia. Stick 3- to 4-inch green stem cuttings in soil. Place pots in a shaded spot, and keep soil moist.
Make sure mower height is raised so you're cutting grass higher. When grass is taller, it shades soil beneath, which reduces water evaporation from soil. Taller grass generally has deeper roots, which helps it withstand drought better.
September is peony planting time. That means August is the month to order peony roots. You should have peonies in the ground about a month before the average first frost date.
Water plants a few hours before applying pesticides, especially during times of drought. In these conditions, plants have less water in tissues, and as pesticides enter cells, they may burn leaves. Avoid watering during midday, when more water will evaporate than soak into soil.
Certain flowers are good candidates for drying including hydrangea blossoms, globe amaranth, celosia, straw flowers and ornamental grasses. Harvest them when they are dry in the morning but before noon when temperatures begin to get hot. With annual flowers, select those that are not fully open. Once you cut the stems, strip all the leaves and remove any damaged parts of the flower. Store them in a dry, dark, warm place, preferably one with good air circulation. Depending on the type of flower, it may take two to three weeks before they are completely dry.
Enjoy the time you have left in the garden. Fall is just around the corner.
July 2017
There is a garden in every childhood, an enchanted place where colors are brighter, the air softer, and the morning more fragrant than ever. ...Elizabeth Lawrence
Provide water in the garden for the birds, especially during dry weather.
Remove infected leaves from roses. Pick up fallen leaves. Continue fungicidal sprays as needed.
While spraying roses with fungicides mix extra and spray hardy phlox to prevent powdery mildew.
Newly planted trees and shrubs should continue to be watered thoroughly, once a week.
Perennials that have finished blooming should be deadheaded. Cut back the foliage some to encourage tidier appearance.
Divide bearded iris now.
Don't pinch mums after mid-July or you may delay flowering.
Water frequently enough to prevent wilting. Early morning irrigation allows turf to dry before nightfall and will reduce the chance of disease.
This is a busy time of the year in your garden but there is so much to enjoy!
"No bought potpourri is so pleasant as that made from ones own garden, for the petals of the flowers one has gathered at home hold the sunshine and memories of summer, and of past summers only the sunny days should be remembered." .... Eleanor Sinclair-Rhode
June 2017
Summer arrives -
June 21 is the longest day of the year, and the extra light and warmth encourages the garden to put on an exuberant burst of growth. But this extra light and warmth also means weeds will sprout up from seemingly nowhere. Keep on top of them by hoeing regularly in dry conditions.
The top seven gardening chores for June.
· Hoe borders regularly to keep down weeds.
· Be water-wise, especially in drought-affected areas.
· Pinch out side shoots on tomatoes.
· Harvest lettuce, radish, other salads and early potatoes.
· Position summer hanging baskets and containers outside.
· Mow lawns at least once a week.
· Plan out summer bedding.
On this June day the buds in my garden are almost as enchanting as the open flowers. Things in bud bring, in the heat of a June noontide, the recollection of the loveliest days of the year, those days of May when all is suggested, nothing yet fulfilled.
Summer arrives -
June 21 is the longest day of the year, and the extra light and warmth encourages the garden to put on an exuberant burst of growth. But this extra light and warmth also means weeds will sprout up from seemingly nowhere. Keep on top of them by hoeing regularly in dry conditions.
The top seven gardening chores for June.
· Hoe borders regularly to keep down weeds.
· Be water-wise, especially in drought-affected areas.
· Pinch out side shoots on tomatoes.
· Harvest lettuce, radish, other salads and early potatoes.
· Position summer hanging baskets and containers outside.
· Mow lawns at least once a week.
· Plan out summer bedding.
On this June day the buds in my garden are almost as enchanting as the open flowers. Things in bud bring, in the heat of a June noontide, the recollection of the loveliest days of the year, those days of May when all is suggested, nothing yet fulfilled.
May 2017
Give your entry an easy facelift by filling pots with colorful flowers and herbs. Make designing them easy by choosing flowers that complement the color of your home's exterior.
Early in the month, plant flowers that won't wilt during chilly spring nights. Pansy, snapdragons, sweet alyssum, or fragrant flowering stock all thrive in cool weather and grow well in pots.
Be cautious hanging baskets of frost-tender annuals for Mother's Day. Fuchsia, bacopa, and viola will shrug off cool nights, but tender annuals like sweet potato vines, impatiens, and nasturtium won't withstand even a light frost.
Herbs can hold their own in early spring containers. Snip leaves to season dishes and create salad dressings.
Mediterranean herbs such as sage, rosemary, lavender, and thyme, tend to grow especially well in unglazed terra-cotta pots, which help keep roots on the dry side.
Tackle weeding while invaders are small. Hand-dig offenders with an Asian hoe, putty knife, or other favorite tool. Weeds pull easiest when soil is wet.
Wait to prune spring-flowering shrubs (such as lilacs, mock oranges, many types of viburnum, etc.) until after blooms fade. Prune immediately after flowering to avoid hindering next year's show.
Give the compost pile a turn or two after spring rains start. Turning the pile even a little helps work moisture throughout, which jump-starts spring decomposition.
Divide summer and fall flowering perennials before plants exceed six inches tall. If spring rains are scarce, don't forget to water newly transplanted divisions.
Add a shovelful (or two) of compost to roses, clematis, butterfly bush, and delphinium. You'll be rewarded with more blooms and bigger plants.
Start pinching garden mums as soon as shoots are 4 to 6 inches long. Remove the last inch of growth until early July and you'll enjoy bushy plants loaded with flowers in fall.
You can also pinch back other late-blooming perennials such as sedum to keep them more compact in autumn.
Insert stakes now to prevent flopping later with plants like peony, aster, or false sunflower. To avoid accidentally spearing dahlia tubers, add stakes at planting time when you still tell where the tubers are.
Give your entry an easy facelift by filling pots with colorful flowers and herbs. Make designing them easy by choosing flowers that complement the color of your home's exterior.
Early in the month, plant flowers that won't wilt during chilly spring nights. Pansy, snapdragons, sweet alyssum, or fragrant flowering stock all thrive in cool weather and grow well in pots.
Be cautious hanging baskets of frost-tender annuals for Mother's Day. Fuchsia, bacopa, and viola will shrug off cool nights, but tender annuals like sweet potato vines, impatiens, and nasturtium won't withstand even a light frost.
Herbs can hold their own in early spring containers. Snip leaves to season dishes and create salad dressings.
Mediterranean herbs such as sage, rosemary, lavender, and thyme, tend to grow especially well in unglazed terra-cotta pots, which help keep roots on the dry side.
Tackle weeding while invaders are small. Hand-dig offenders with an Asian hoe, putty knife, or other favorite tool. Weeds pull easiest when soil is wet.
Wait to prune spring-flowering shrubs (such as lilacs, mock oranges, many types of viburnum, etc.) until after blooms fade. Prune immediately after flowering to avoid hindering next year's show.
Give the compost pile a turn or two after spring rains start. Turning the pile even a little helps work moisture throughout, which jump-starts spring decomposition.
Divide summer and fall flowering perennials before plants exceed six inches tall. If spring rains are scarce, don't forget to water newly transplanted divisions.
Add a shovelful (or two) of compost to roses, clematis, butterfly bush, and delphinium. You'll be rewarded with more blooms and bigger plants.
Start pinching garden mums as soon as shoots are 4 to 6 inches long. Remove the last inch of growth until early July and you'll enjoy bushy plants loaded with flowers in fall.
You can also pinch back other late-blooming perennials such as sedum to keep them more compact in autumn.
Insert stakes now to prevent flopping later with plants like peony, aster, or false sunflower. To avoid accidentally spearing dahlia tubers, add stakes at planting time when you still tell where the tubers are.
April 2017
April is National Gardening Month and our garden will soon come alive. Spring has sprung.
Clean Up – Clean up any leaves from last fall. Get them out of your garden and off the grass.
Perennials – Cut back any perennials before they start to grow again, including ornamental grass.
Planning – Make plans for your garden. What colors would you like to add? Where will you extend your garden? Where can you place new planters or add a new flowering shrub?
Fertilize – Give your evergreens a boost with Hollytone. Cultivate, add fertilizer and compost to old and new annuals. Violas are an old time favorite! Whether you prefer a
profusion of tiny faced violas or a few large faced pansies, these plants are a must in planters, hanging baskets or anywhere you could use a spark of color in your garden. They will add color to your garden from late March to late May. Come May, it is safe to plant more color with annuals. They are great flowers to press too!!!
New Additions – Visit your local nurseries often to see what is in bloom. You would not want to miss out on the early blooming shrubs, such as Flowering Quince, Flowering
April is National Gardening Month and our garden will soon come alive. Spring has sprung.
Clean Up – Clean up any leaves from last fall. Get them out of your garden and off the grass.
Perennials – Cut back any perennials before they start to grow again, including ornamental grass.
Planning – Make plans for your garden. What colors would you like to add? Where will you extend your garden? Where can you place new planters or add a new flowering shrub?
Fertilize – Give your evergreens a boost with Hollytone. Cultivate, add fertilizer and compost to old and new annuals. Violas are an old time favorite! Whether you prefer a
profusion of tiny faced violas or a few large faced pansies, these plants are a must in planters, hanging baskets or anywhere you could use a spark of color in your garden. They will add color to your garden from late March to late May. Come May, it is safe to plant more color with annuals. They are great flowers to press too!!!
New Additions – Visit your local nurseries often to see what is in bloom. You would not want to miss out on the early blooming shrubs, such as Flowering Quince, Flowering
March 2017
Next month at our April evening meeting with the Centerport Garden Club, we will enjoy a program by Rusty Schmidt on Rain Gardens. I thought if you are interested in having a rain garden you might be interested in how to get started. You could then at our April meeting bring any questions you might want to ask Rusty. The following is suggested by the Cornell Institute.
Link to Creating a Rain Garden
Do you want a garden that’s easy to install, looks good year-round, requires little maintenance, and helps prevent water pollution? Rain gardens are shallow depressions designed to soak up water and support trees, shrubs, and flowers that tolerate both wet and dry conditions. Often located near gutter downspouts or places where water puddles, rain gardens can also be landscaped into gentle slopes or run curbside along streets.
By absorbing the rain falling on your land, a rain garden can help reduce the storm-water runoff that pollutes our beaches, harbors, and estuaries. People sometimes confuse rain and water gardens. A rain garden is not a pond and won’t breed mosquitoes, which require 10 to 14 days in standing water to develop from eggs into adults.
The next time it rains, observe the direction of water runoff and where it collects on your property. Your roof may be directing most of the rain falling on it into gutters and downspouts feeding into a storm drain; if so, consider diverting this lost rainwater to irrigate a rain garden via underground piping, or construct a surface swale to channel this water to the garden. If your land slopes gently, you can create shallow terraces (one foot deep or less) for your rain garden or dig out a scallop-shaped bed for it in the hill.
The best plants for rain gardens are happy with a “drought and drench” lifestyle. Native plants are highly recommended because they are uniquely adapted to local weather fluctuations. Also, they require little or no fertilizer, are excellent food sources for pollinators, and provide habitat for birds, insects, and butterflies. Once established, their deep roots increase the water-holding capacity of the soil, hold it together, and prevent erosion. Water a rain garden as needed for the first year or so after planting. By the third year, you’ll never need to water it again!
For information on how to evaluate and amend your soil for a rain garden, do a percolation test to see how quickly water is absorbed, decide the dimensions of a rain garden, and prepare and plant the site, read the CCE Suffolk fact sheet on Creating a Rain Garden, and its companion Native Plants for Long Island Rain Gardens.
December 2016
Use photos, notes to access what areas need additional plantings.
Order seeds and plants from garden catalogues.
After ground freezes, mulch perennial and bulb beds. The mulch will prevent heaving during freeze/thaw cycles.
Tie and support evergreen shrubs to prevent breakage during winter snows.
Avoid using salt to melt snow. Use sand or sawdust or cat litter.
Keep bird feeders full during winter months
Prune evergreen branches to use in holiday decorating.
Keep newly cut Christmas trees in bucket of water in cool spot.
Set up Christmas tree in a reservoir stand. Cut on a slant about one inch above existing cut for optimum water absorption.
Be sure to keep reservoir filled and place tree in the coolest part of the room.
Sterilize the tree stand with solution of boiling water, vinegar and household bleach after use.
Use photos, notes to access what areas need additional plantings.
Order seeds and plants from garden catalogues.
After ground freezes, mulch perennial and bulb beds. The mulch will prevent heaving during freeze/thaw cycles.
Tie and support evergreen shrubs to prevent breakage during winter snows.
Avoid using salt to melt snow. Use sand or sawdust or cat litter.
Keep bird feeders full during winter months
Prune evergreen branches to use in holiday decorating.
Keep newly cut Christmas trees in bucket of water in cool spot.
Set up Christmas tree in a reservoir stand. Cut on a slant about one inch above existing cut for optimum water absorption.
Be sure to keep reservoir filled and place tree in the coolest part of the room.
Sterilize the tree stand with solution of boiling water, vinegar and household bleach after use.
November 2016
Biting winds and frosty mornings give warning to wrap up planting and tackle outdoor chores before winter arrives.
Invest time in tidying the garden before the snow flies. Time spent outdoors now pays big dividends in spring. You'll not only shorten your to-do list, you'll also ward off some pest and disease problems.
Pull annuals and add them to the compost pile. For annuals that self-seed, allow seed-laden stems to remain in place through winter unless you plan to sprinkle them elsewhere in the garden.
Store breakable items, like terra-cotta pots, rain gauges, and other garden art before hard freezes settle in. Terra-cotta overwinters fine in an unheated shed or garage. Make sure pots and saucers are dry before storage.
Fall can be a great time to cut back your perennials if you've got the time and energy to get it done. Make sure to leave 2-3 inches of the plant's stem to help protect fresh shoots from animal damage as they first emerge in the spring. It's also a helpful reminder of where plants are in the yard before they start to sprout.
Consider leaving some perennials like coneflower, black-eyed Susan and tall sedums standing. They add interest to the winter garden both by their structure and by attracting birds to their seed heads.
Ornamental grasses should be left standing to protect their crown from a harsh winter.
Keep winter gardens covered with a net until gusty fall winds have settled down and leaves aren't blowing around.
Pull stakes and plant supports. Store where they'll freeze to help destroy overwintering pests and diseases.
Garden Tip: Use a leaf vacuum or blower to remove leaves along foundations. Removing leaves helps eliminate hiding places for pests and rodents that can gain entry to your home. Allow some leaves to remain beneath shrubs to provide vital winter cover for beneficial insects.
Biting winds and frosty mornings give warning to wrap up planting and tackle outdoor chores before winter arrives.
Invest time in tidying the garden before the snow flies. Time spent outdoors now pays big dividends in spring. You'll not only shorten your to-do list, you'll also ward off some pest and disease problems.
Pull annuals and add them to the compost pile. For annuals that self-seed, allow seed-laden stems to remain in place through winter unless you plan to sprinkle them elsewhere in the garden.
Store breakable items, like terra-cotta pots, rain gauges, and other garden art before hard freezes settle in. Terra-cotta overwinters fine in an unheated shed or garage. Make sure pots and saucers are dry before storage.
Fall can be a great time to cut back your perennials if you've got the time and energy to get it done. Make sure to leave 2-3 inches of the plant's stem to help protect fresh shoots from animal damage as they first emerge in the spring. It's also a helpful reminder of where plants are in the yard before they start to sprout.
Consider leaving some perennials like coneflower, black-eyed Susan and tall sedums standing. They add interest to the winter garden both by their structure and by attracting birds to their seed heads.
Ornamental grasses should be left standing to protect their crown from a harsh winter.
Keep winter gardens covered with a net until gusty fall winds have settled down and leaves aren't blowing around.
Pull stakes and plant supports. Store where they'll freeze to help destroy overwintering pests and diseases.
Garden Tip: Use a leaf vacuum or blower to remove leaves along foundations. Removing leaves helps eliminate hiding places for pests and rodents that can gain entry to your home. Allow some leaves to remain beneath shrubs to provide vital winter cover for beneficial insects.
October 2016
Lift dahlia tubers, begonia tubers and gladiolus corms to store dry over the winter months. Remove the dead foliage before storing them.
Plant daffodil bulbs, tulip bulbs and allium bulbs for a glorious spring display. Dot them through borders or naturalize them in the grass.
Plant bare root ornamental trees and shrubs.
This month is an ideal time to move trees and shrubs, and plant hedges.
Hard wood cuttings can be taken now from deciduous shrubs.
Autumn is the ideal time to plant clematis plants.
Prune climbing roses and rambling roses once they’ve finished flowering and tie in the stems for autumn winds cause damage. Clear up fallen rose leaves to prevent diseases such as black spot from over-wintering. Don’t compost the leaves.
Cut back perennial plants that have died
Lift and divide any overcrowded herbaceous perennials while the soil is still warm.
After tidying borders, mulch with bark chips.
Clean up fallen leaves regularly to allow light to the grass.
A last mowing can be made this month before leaving your lawn for the winter.
Now settle into your armchair and take stock of this year’s garden and make notes for next Spring – a digital camera can become an invaluable garden companion – taking snap shots of where herbaceous plants are located before they die back.
Lift dahlia tubers, begonia tubers and gladiolus corms to store dry over the winter months. Remove the dead foliage before storing them.
Plant daffodil bulbs, tulip bulbs and allium bulbs for a glorious spring display. Dot them through borders or naturalize them in the grass.
Plant bare root ornamental trees and shrubs.
This month is an ideal time to move trees and shrubs, and plant hedges.
Hard wood cuttings can be taken now from deciduous shrubs.
Autumn is the ideal time to plant clematis plants.
Prune climbing roses and rambling roses once they’ve finished flowering and tie in the stems for autumn winds cause damage. Clear up fallen rose leaves to prevent diseases such as black spot from over-wintering. Don’t compost the leaves.
Cut back perennial plants that have died
Lift and divide any overcrowded herbaceous perennials while the soil is still warm.
After tidying borders, mulch with bark chips.
Clean up fallen leaves regularly to allow light to the grass.
A last mowing can be made this month before leaving your lawn for the winter.
Now settle into your armchair and take stock of this year’s garden and make notes for next Spring – a digital camera can become an invaluable garden companion – taking snap shots of where herbaceous plants are located before they die back.
August 2016
Here's a Garden-To-Do List for the sultry month of August:
- Pick herbs for fresh use and for drying. Harvesting will keep them growing longer.
- Order spring bulbs for planting and forcing.
- Check that your mulch hasn't decomposed and add more as needed.
- Spread a mid-season layer of compost or manure.
- Keep deadheading and harvesting.
- Leave some annual seeds to self-sow.
- Start saving seeds and taking cuttings.
- Remove any diseased foliage now, so it doesn't get lost in the fall leaves.
- Prune summer flowering shrubs as the flowers fade.
- Trim and feed hanging baskets to prolong their beauty. Take pictures of your garden at peak.
- Take pictures of container combinations you'd like to repeat.
- Begin dividing perennials. Start with the bearded iris.
- Plant trees, shrubs and perennials now, so they can take root, and keep them well watered.
July 2016
Remove spent blooms on roses, perennials, and annuals to keep the flower show going strong. Cut back annuals like petunias in midsummer to encourage fresh growth and flowering. Reduce plant height or length by one-third or more.
Continue pinching mums through mid-month to encourage a full, colorful fall flower display.
Give late-blooming perennials, such as sedum and aster a quick trim by cutting plants back by one-third around July 4.
Check containers of annuals daily for water needs. Give flowering plants a bloom booster fertilizer every 10 days for an amazing show.
Cut early-season bloomers, like delphinium, daisy, and campanula back by one-half to one-third. New growth will sprout and your efforts may be rewarded with a second flower show.
Keep your vegetable garden well watered during hot, dry spells. It's best to give most plants about an inch of water a week.
If you irrigate your vegetable garden, avoid doing so in late afternoon or evening. Give the moisture a chance to evaporate before the temperatures start to drop. Also, avoid getting foliage wet whenever possible, especially on disease-prone species such as tomatoes and squash.
If you see white butterflies are flitting among your vegetables, you'll soon spot green worms feasting on cabbage family crops (cabbage, broccoli, brussel sprouts). Treat plants with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a natural bacteria. Caterpillars consume Bt when they munch on treated leaves, and the bacteria kill them.
Check out some of our favorite summer garden recipes.
Remove spent blooms on roses, perennials, and annuals to keep the flower show going strong. Cut back annuals like petunias in midsummer to encourage fresh growth and flowering. Reduce plant height or length by one-third or more.
Continue pinching mums through mid-month to encourage a full, colorful fall flower display.
Give late-blooming perennials, such as sedum and aster a quick trim by cutting plants back by one-third around July 4.
Check containers of annuals daily for water needs. Give flowering plants a bloom booster fertilizer every 10 days for an amazing show.
Cut early-season bloomers, like delphinium, daisy, and campanula back by one-half to one-third. New growth will sprout and your efforts may be rewarded with a second flower show.
Keep your vegetable garden well watered during hot, dry spells. It's best to give most plants about an inch of water a week.
If you irrigate your vegetable garden, avoid doing so in late afternoon or evening. Give the moisture a chance to evaporate before the temperatures start to drop. Also, avoid getting foliage wet whenever possible, especially on disease-prone species such as tomatoes and squash.
If you see white butterflies are flitting among your vegetables, you'll soon spot green worms feasting on cabbage family crops (cabbage, broccoli, brussel sprouts). Treat plants with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a natural bacteria. Caterpillars consume Bt when they munch on treated leaves, and the bacteria kill them.
Check out some of our favorite summer garden recipes.
June 2016
Heavy rains encourage slug problems. Check for slugs during rainy periods and hand pick the pests.
Remove old flower heads from annual bedding plants to keep them blooming.
Remove foliage from spring bulbs after it turns yellow and begins to dry. Set out bedding plants to cover the bare spots using care not to damage the bulbs.
Watch for and control black spot and powdery mildew on rose foliage.
Spring flowering shrubs such as spirea, viburnum, lilac and forsythia should be pruned as soon as they are done blooming. The best time to harvest most herbs is just before flowering, when the leaves contain the maximum essential oils.
Start a gardening notebook. Pay special attention to those plants which withstand drought conditions.
Weed removal is important for a number of reasons. It conserves moisture, conserves nutrients in the soil and helps prevent the spread of disease and insects.
Because many of our gardens have become a buffet table for deer the following are resistant plants that might have a chance in your yards:
Some deer resistant perennials have thickened, tough leaves, like leathery Lenten rose (Helleborus), while others have a prickly feel. Prickly-leafed deer resistant perennials include bear’s breeches (Acanthus mollis), Oriental poppy (Papaver orientale) and globe thistle (Echinops ritro). Deer equally avoid leaves with coarse hairs that create a sandpapery, rough surface. This group includes coral bells (Heuchera), black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia hirta), blanketflower (Gaillardia x grandiflora) and Japanese anemone (Anemone x hybrida). Other plants that offer a tactile experience, like Artemisia or astilbe (Astilbe chinensis), also seem to unpalatable to deer. Many plants used in traditional herbal medicine are ones deer avoid. These deer resistant perennials include purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) and evening primrose (Oenothera speciosa). Plants like monkshood (Aconitum napellus), foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) and Delphinium possess chemical compounds with poisonous qualities—deer don’t usually touch these plants.
Some deer resistant perennials have a sap that’s disagreeable to deer. These sappy plants include false indigo (Baptisia australis), cushion spurge (Euphorbia polychroma) and bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis). Deer also leave daffodils (Narcissus) alone, presumably due to the sap. Create an entire deer resistant garden using only plants these hoofed critters dislike.
Or place deer resistant perennials strategically throughout other plantings. For instance, arrange deer resistant perennials around plants they usually love, such as garden phlox or hosta. Or intersperse plants deer dislike throughout planting areas, using them heavily along bed edges, to give deer the impression that the planting contains nothing they like.
Heavy rains encourage slug problems. Check for slugs during rainy periods and hand pick the pests.
Remove old flower heads from annual bedding plants to keep them blooming.
Remove foliage from spring bulbs after it turns yellow and begins to dry. Set out bedding plants to cover the bare spots using care not to damage the bulbs.
Watch for and control black spot and powdery mildew on rose foliage.
Spring flowering shrubs such as spirea, viburnum, lilac and forsythia should be pruned as soon as they are done blooming. The best time to harvest most herbs is just before flowering, when the leaves contain the maximum essential oils.
Start a gardening notebook. Pay special attention to those plants which withstand drought conditions.
Weed removal is important for a number of reasons. It conserves moisture, conserves nutrients in the soil and helps prevent the spread of disease and insects.
Because many of our gardens have become a buffet table for deer the following are resistant plants that might have a chance in your yards:
Some deer resistant perennials have thickened, tough leaves, like leathery Lenten rose (Helleborus), while others have a prickly feel. Prickly-leafed deer resistant perennials include bear’s breeches (Acanthus mollis), Oriental poppy (Papaver orientale) and globe thistle (Echinops ritro). Deer equally avoid leaves with coarse hairs that create a sandpapery, rough surface. This group includes coral bells (Heuchera), black-eyed susan (Rudbeckia hirta), blanketflower (Gaillardia x grandiflora) and Japanese anemone (Anemone x hybrida). Other plants that offer a tactile experience, like Artemisia or astilbe (Astilbe chinensis), also seem to unpalatable to deer. Many plants used in traditional herbal medicine are ones deer avoid. These deer resistant perennials include purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) and evening primrose (Oenothera speciosa). Plants like monkshood (Aconitum napellus), foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) and Delphinium possess chemical compounds with poisonous qualities—deer don’t usually touch these plants.
Some deer resistant perennials have a sap that’s disagreeable to deer. These sappy plants include false indigo (Baptisia australis), cushion spurge (Euphorbia polychroma) and bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis). Deer also leave daffodils (Narcissus) alone, presumably due to the sap. Create an entire deer resistant garden using only plants these hoofed critters dislike.
Or place deer resistant perennials strategically throughout other plantings. For instance, arrange deer resistant perennials around plants they usually love, such as garden phlox or hosta. Or intersperse plants deer dislike throughout planting areas, using them heavily along bed edges, to give deer the impression that the planting contains nothing they like.
May 2016
Attract Fairies to Your Garden
Fairies love music so install a wind chime in your garden.
Fairies love pretty things! Things that glitter and glisten, shine or dazzle – dewdrops on a petal are as pretty as crystal & gemstones - as are shells and stones. Leave a little something at a fairy door as a treat now and then!
Small animals, snails and butterflies in particular, help fairies get about…Take care not to discourage these pets.
Make fairies feel welcome! A sure sign is if you have a special area, such as a fairy door (that’s a REALLY SURE sign!). Some people build fairy homes and enchanted woods.
Fairies love children. Children play make-believe games. They are the real believers. Fairies love those who love them. They spread fairy love and luck to those lovely people. Fairies are ageless. Children are more likely to see fairies. As you get older, your ability to see fairies lessens. So whether you are a child (or a child at heart) remember to do all the things children love to do – smile, laugh, play, dance, splash, paint, do whatever makes you happy.
Fairies are shy creatures and even if you do not see them you can be sure they are there... perhaps they will leave you a white feather or a trail of fairy dust or something as simple as finding a stone or shell outside your fairy door. But look for the signs that they are there.
Fairy Folk love color, especially colorful plants, trees and flowers! Who do you think paints the rainbows? When planning your enchanted garden, many plants attract butterflies and fairies... some of the fairies favorite flowers are sunflowers, honeysuckle, yarrow, summer lilac, red valerian, daisies, cosmos, rosemary, thyme, purple coneflower, pincushion, French lavender and heliotrope. Plant pansies, snapdragons, blue columbine, foxglove butterfly, nasturtiums, and a long list of other favorites to attract hummingbirds and garden fairies. They love fruit trees, such as apple, cherry or pear. They like to use the blossoms for clothing and for spring festivities.
Perhaps you're lucky and have an oak tree in your enchanted garden for attracting fairies. Fairies cherish the Great Oak and use the acorns for decoration, celebrations. Magic oak leaves are used in the autumn celebrations. Hundreds of faeries have been found to live in the oldest oaks. There are fairies to be found in every oak tree. The health and energy of the surrounding fairy garden plays a major role in determining how many fairies actually live in the Great Oak.
Don’t forget that the wee ones are nature loving and enjoy their fun. When attracting fairies into your garden, keep it clear of weeds and slugs, although a small patch that is unkempt or planted with wildflowers, is fine, so plan to leave part of your garden a bit unkempt. This small area will make fairies feel welcomed. It doesn’t have to be a very large space, but having this one little space will give joy to your fairy friends.
The final step in attracting fairies to come to your garden is very simple. Ask them. If you give conscious energy to this event, it will happen. And BELIEVE.
Fairies are invisible and inaudible like angels. But their magic sparkles in nature.
~Lynn Holland
April 2016
- Choose planting areas based on exposure to sun, shade, wind and distance from water source
- Study garden for gaps that can be filled by spring flowering bulbs, and order in August for best selection
- Choose flowering trees and shrubs for color and time of bloom to add to the garden in fall
- Continue to remove winter mulches and debris
- Continue to dig beds in preparation for planting
- Complete adding compost to planting bed soil
- Place peony supports
- Cultivate planting beds and carefully remove weeds
- Prepare bare-root and potted roses for planting; soak overnight in fish emulsion
- Continue to apply horticultural oil sprays to control insect pests on trees if temperature is over 40 degrees
- Test lawn soil and apply lime if warranted
- Continue to plant deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs, weather and soil conditions permitting
- Sow seeds of hardy annuals in place in the garden
- Plant out seedlings of cool-season annuals like pansies and snapdragons
- Continue to plant and transplant perennials
- Complete rose planting
- Re-seed bare lawn areas
- Complete rose pruning but wait until after flowering on climbers and ramblers
- Prune late flowering shrubs such as buddleia and hydrangea
- Prune early spring-flowering shrubs immediately after flowers die
- Wait to prune evergreens, hedges and other shrubs until early summer
- Fertilize fruit trees and roses
- Fertilize perennials when you see 2-3" of new growth
- Fertilize bulbs as they finish blooming
- Complete lawn fertilization if not done in the fall
March 2016
Frosts can still be a hazard, so keep vulnerable plants protected at night if frost is forecast. March winds are also notorious for their ferocity so check exposed plants are well supported.
Now is the time for a thorough spring clean; weed and dig over your borders incorporating as much organic matter as you can - those chilly winds will really help to dry out the soil. Mulch bare soil.
Clean and repair your garden tools; book the lawn mower in for a service.
Plant summer flowering bulbs. Add some compost to the soil, a sprinkling of bone meal and plant them slightly deeper than they were in the pot.
Cut down perennials that have been left standing over winter, including grasses - even if they are still looking good. Lift and divide overgrown clumps of perennials and split polyanthus plants once they have finished flowering.
On the subject of perennials that will need support in the summer, get ahead of the game so your lovely poppies, peonies and delphiniums will grow through supports, rather than being trussed up conspicuously with canes and string come the moment of near collapse. Hazel or birch twigs are great for the natural look, canes and pea netting are practical and unobtrusive, and green plastic covered supports are easy and convenient choices!
Looking ahead to summer, buy young plants now for your hanging baskets and containers and pot them up so that the moment the last frost is over, you can plant away with teenage plants rather than toddlers.
Sow hardy annuals such as calendula, cornflower and annual poppies in drifts – clashing colors just don’t matter in a garden, but remember to plant taller plants behind shorter ones.
Brighten up your pots and containers with tete-a-tete, pansies, violas, primroses, cyclamen and spring heathers. A stunning combination is tete-a-tete surrounded by pink and yellow primroses and variegated ivy - or try pansies densely packed for a striking display of color. Plant flowering spring bulbs and primroses in empty gaps - a bit of a cheat, but who cares!
Remove the top layer of soil from pot-grown shrubs and replace with fresh potting compost that contains a slow-release fertilizer.
Our gardens are waiting. Let’s all get out there. You know you are dying to get your hands dirty! Enjoy.